THE VEGETABLE 
GARDEN 



By- R, L. WATTS 




Class __5xBAiJ- 

Book. ^"^7 

Gopyriglit]^" 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Digitized by the Internet Arciiive 
in 2010 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/vegetablegardenOOwatt 




The Squash Is Not as Highly Appreciated as It Should Be 



THE VEGETABLE 
GARDEN 



BY 

RALPH L. WATTS 

Dean and Director of the School of Agriculture 
and Experiment Station of The Pennsyl- 
vania State College. 



HANDBOOKS 



Number 32 




NEW YORK 

OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 

MCMXV 






Copyright. 1915, by 
OUTING PUBLISHINXt COMPANY 

AU riahts reserved. 



OCT 16 1915 

e^aA4l6068 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER I 

PAGE 

Gardens for Everybody n 

CHAPTER II 
Where to Grow Vegetables 18 

CHAPTER III 
Hotbeds, Cold-Frames, and Greenhouses .... 26 

CHAPTER IV 
Starting Early Vegetable Plants 35 

CHAPTER V 
Tillage Problems 46 

CHAPTER VI 
Stable Manures and Cover-Crops 54 

CHAPTER VII 
Commercial Fertilizers 63 

CHAPTER VIII 
The Seed Supply 72 

CHAPTER IX 
Marketing 81 

CHAPTER X 
Intensive Gardening 88 

CHAPTER XI 
The Home Garden 96 

CHAPTER Xll 
Cultural Directions 102 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

The Squash Is Not as Highly Appreciated as 

It Should Be Frontispiece 

FACING 
PAGE 

The Ground Inside the Frames Is Utilized During the 
Entire Summer i6 

Hay or Straw May Be Used in Covering Cold Frames 
During Cold Weather 32 

With a Small Hoe There Is No Difficulty in Cultivating 
the Ground Between the Rows in the Cold Frame . 48 

Wheel Hoes Are Indispensable 64 

Early Cabbage Is One of Our Most Profitable Vege- 
tables 113 

Overhead Irrigation Is Becoming Universally Popular . 128 

A Good Stand of Plants and Heavy Setting of Fruit 
Are Essential in Watermelon Culture 160 



THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 



THE VEGETABLE 
GARDEN 

CHAPTER I 

GARDENS FOR EVERYBODY 

THE census report for 19 lo values the 
vegetables produced in the United 
States at $417,000,000, while all other 
horticultural crops of that year are valued at 
$273,000,000. Most land owners believe that 
fruit has made the better financial showing. 
Although this is an erroneous impression, it is 
the natural result of the fact that agricultural 
colleges, agricultural experiment stations, horti- 
cultural associations, and farm papers have 
given far more attention to fruit culture than to 
vegetable gardening. The fact is that if the 
census figures include the value of the enormous 
quantities of vegetables grown in home gardens 
in country and town, the amount would be 
greatly increased. 

11 



12 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

As the manuscript of this little volume goes 
to press, greater activity than ever may be ob- 
served along every line of vegetable gardening. 
The agricultural colleges are offering courses of 
instruction in home vegetable gardening, market 
gardening, farm gardening or truck farming, 
vegetable forcing, and in the systematic study 
of the varieties and classes of vegetables. 
Agricultural experiment stations are undertak- 
ing Investigations relative to the development of 
improved strains of well-known varieties; the 
control of troublesome Insects and diseases; the 
proper application of commercial fertilizers and 
stable manures; the various soil types for the 
production of vegetables; and other cultural 
problems which are demanding attention. 

The markets of the United States are unsur- 
passed In their demands for choice vegetables. 
Our cities are largely supplied by great, well- 
known trucking districts, but there will always 
be a place for the grower who desires to pro- 
duce vegetables on a small scale with a view to 
meeting local demands. So many home tables 
are poorly supplied with fresh vegetables, that 
it would be both profitable and public-spirited 
for the small land owner to plant a spacious 
area and sell the surplus to neighbors or to 
stores In exchange for groceries, A home gar- 



GARDENS FOR EVERYBODY 13 

den of liberal proportions in town or country 
offers opportunities not to be disregarded. By 
skillful management It will reduce the cost of 
living, and provide not only an abundance of 
fresh vegetables during a large part of the year, 
but also a quantity to be stored and canned for 
use throughout the winter season. 

People of all classes In our towns and cities 
have become interested in gardening. Many 
persons undertake the work as a means of 
diminishing household expenses. Fresh vege- 
tables of high quality are not always obtainable, 
even though cash may be available for the prices 
demanded, and a garden in the back-yard helps 
to solve this household problem. 

There Is a vast difference in the quality of 
vegetables transported long distances, and kept 
In over-heated city stores for several hours, and 
those which are served direct from one's own 
garden. Vegetables grown by our own hands 
always seem more satisfying than those pur- 
chased In a store or market. Furthermore, we 
are able to recommend, from practical experi- 
mentation the health-giving qualities of a diet 
of fresh vegetables, and the Increase of vigor 
which may be acquired from gardening by those 
engaged In sedentary occupations. Work In 
the garden, even for fifteen minutes a day, with 



14^ THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

the hoe, trowel, or other tools, often yields 
tremendous results in the way of genuhie pleas- 
ure and improved health. It affords mental re- 
laxation and at times absolute forgetfulness of 
daily cares and annoyances. 

In recent years, gardening among the labor- 
ing classes of the large towns and cities has been 
recommended as a means not only of reducing 
the cost of living but of providing pleasant and 
profitable employment for the wage-earner and 
his family, when other duties do not demand 
their attention. These ideas are excellent and 
worthy of consideration wherever conditions 
are favorable for successful gardening. Mil- 
lions of families in towns, where there are min- 
ing and manufacturing industries, might well 
devote a part of their yards to the growing of 
vegetables. 

By following the most Intensive plans, such 
as are explained in the various chapters of this 
little book, a surprisingly large quantity of vege- 
tables may be grown on a plot of ground of a 
few hundred square feet. The results of a 
well-managed laboring man's garden will show 
In smaller monthly grocery bills. 

The " vacant lot " gardening movement Is 
becoming popular throughout the country. In 
every town and in the suburbs of every city. 



GARDENS FOR EVERYBODY 15 

there are many lots that might be made to pro- 
duce large supplies of choice vegetables. The 
lots would serve a much more useful purpose as 
gardens than as dumping grounds for ashes, tin 
cans, and other rubbish. A few flowers inter- 
spersed with the vegetables will make the plots 
objects of real beauty. The landscape features 
of many a village and suburb would be Improved 
by the use of neglected lots for vegetable 
gardening. Furthermore, such gardens invest 
a town with an appearance of thrift. If owners 
of vacant lots do not desire to cultivate them, 
they should rent them at prices sufficiently low 
to attract gardeners. 

Children take to gardening " like ducks to 
water." They like to dig, rake, shovel, and 
hoe. They like to sow seeds and watch the 
plants grow. Their little hearts crave such 
employment. Is It just to rear children with- 
out giving them opportunity to satisfy such in- 
born desires? People who must live In 
crowded districts can procure window boxes. 
Those who own or rent even a few square feet 
of old mother earth can give a part of the space 
to the children for the growing of vegetables 
and flowers. The children, too, should have a 
real Interest in the larger gardens of back-yards 
and vacant lots. 



16 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Organizations in some of the larger cities 
have exerted a splendid influence in this direc- 
tion. They have helped children and adults to 
find suitable land, and they have given the neces- 
sary, instructions for the making of good gar- 
dens. Whatever may be the social or moral 
standing of the families interested, it Is a real 
uplift movement in every sense. 

Too much can not be said in favor of school- 
garden work in connection with public schools. 
It deserves all the encouragement that the di- 
recting boards are able to give. As an educa- 
tional proposition it Is well worth while; It 
teaches thrift and industry; It gives the children 
an opportunity to observe the results of their 
own labor; and it brings them close to nature. 
Thus it helps to develop the best type of man- 
hood and womanhood. 

Vegetable forcing is a branch of vegetable 
gardening. It relates to the growing of vege- 
tables under artificial conditions. Hotbeds, 
cold-frames, and greenhouses are used for forc- 
ing vegetables. The whole vegetable-forcing 
industry has made w^onderful progress in the 
United States during the past two decades. It 
Is the most certain type of vegetable gardening 
because It provides conditions that may be con- 
trolled. With a properly built and equipped 




£ -' 



-TD C 






ii.iS 



GARDENS FOB EVERYBODY 17 

greenhouse, there should be practically no fail- 
ures. 

Frost and cold are kept away from the crop 
by a heating plant of ample capacity. Destruc- 
tive Insects and diseases In the soil are destroyed 
by cooking the soil with steam before the crop 
Is started. Insects infesting the parts of the 
plant above ground are controlled by spraying 
or fumigation. Water is supplied by a real 
rain machine so that there need be no fear of 
drought. 

Wherever good markets are available, vege- 
table forcing is an attractive business proposi- 
tion. Thousands of people should have hot- 
beds and cold-frames in which to start early 
plants and to grow vegetables for the home 
earlier in the spring and later in the fall than it 
is possible to grow them out-of-doors. 



CHAPTER II 

WHERE TO GROW VEGETABLES 

WHEN vegetables are to be produced 
on a large commercial scale the ut- 
most care should be exercised in 
the selection of a location. The great centers 
of population afford a market for unlimited 
quantities of vegetables and hundreds of towns 
and cities in every state of the union are seeking 
a constant supply of fresh products from the 
garden. The fact Is that practically every com- 
munity offers opportunities of some kind for the 
growing of vegetables for commercial purposes, 
although the demand may not be large. 

Sometimes one or two special crops can be 
disposed of to advantage, while the inducements 
for the production and marketing of a general 
assortment of vegetables may not be encourag- 
ing. Before growing a surplus of any vege- 
table for commercial purposes, local markets or 
shipping facilities should be carefully studied. 
The all important thing is to determine the best 
opportunities from a business standpoint before 

18 



VEGETABLES 19 

extending operations beyond the limits of the 
garden actually needed to supply the home 
table. 

Next to markets, suitable soil is the most im- 
portant factor in the selection of a location for 
the growing of vegetables. Deep, sandy loams 
are ideal for gardening purposes. Such soils 
possess good drainage, are easy to cultivate, re- 
tain fertility fairly well, and are adapted to the 
various classes of vegetables. The value of 
sand in soils to be used for gardening can not be 
overestimated. The good drainage insured by 
sand, especially if there is a porous subsoil, re- 
sults in a higher soil temperature in the spring 
and, therefore, such soils are especially desir- 
able for the growing of early vegetables and 
those classes of crops — as the eggplant — that 
require a constantly warm soil. The sandy 
soils are easy to spade, plow, harrow, and 
cultivate. They are not subject to hard baking 
and may be cultivated soon after rainfall. 
There is always more or less tramping of the 
ground in harvesting garden crops, but this is 
not as injurious to sandy soils as to heavy soils. 
The root crops are smoother, better formed, 
and have fewer small fibrous lateral roots when 
they are grown in sandy soil. The advantage 
of some sand in the vegetable garden is so great 



.20 THE VEGETABLE GAEDEN 

that It Is often hauled short distances and mixed 
with the heavier garden soils. This is seldom 
practical on a large scale but there is no reason 
why a few loads of sand should not be added to 
the part of every home garden which is to be 
used for the growing of head lettuce and the 
root crops. 

The absence of sand or the impracticability 
of obtaining it for the garden, however, should 
not form any especial handicap to one who Is 
anxious to grow choice vegetables. The stiffest 
clay soils may be made to produce most excellent 
garden crops. They are more retentive of 
plant food than light soils, and that is an advan- 
tage which should not be overlooked. Their 
physical properties niay be greatly modified by 
the use oi stable manure or perhaps green 
manurial crops. An increased supply of or- 
ganic matter makes the soil more friable and 
porous and easier to cultivate. If stable 
manures are applied to heavy soils annually over 
a long term oi years the soils become materially 
modltied In structure and much darker in color. 
Heavy soils are especially suitable for cabbage, 
late cauliflower, late tomatoes, sweet corn, cu- 
cumbers, and squashes, and If such soils are well 
supplied with organic matter all of the vege- 
tables mav be i^rown successfully. 



VEGETABLES 21 

Muck soils are especially well adapted to 
onions, celery, and head lettuce. Tremendous 
areas of these crops are now grown in the muck 
soils of the United States. Muck soil is an ex- 
ceedingly valuable addition to clay soils, as it 
makes them lighter and more porous. It is 
also excellent for the starting of early vegetable 
plants in the greenhouse or hotbed. 

Stony areas may quickly be improved for 
gardening purposes. It is a simple matter to 
pick up the larger stones and the smaller ones 
may be removed by the use of rakes, shovels, 
and forks. 

Whatever the soil texture — whether sandy, 
clayey, or stony — the drainage must be per- 
fect. It is sometimes necessary to use tile 
drains to dispose of the surplus soil moisture. 

Vegetable gardening is one of the most in- 
tensive branches of farming, and this is espe- 
cially true of market gardening, where the 
plants are grown close together and manures 
and fertilizers are often applied with the great- 
est liberality. With any intensive system of 
gardening, the expenses of production are neces- 
sarily high, and every possible effort should be 
made to avoid crop failures. 

In recent years a very high value has been 
placed on soil moisture as a factor in crop 



^2 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

growth. Formerly, more emphasis was given 
to manures and fertilizers, but now we realize 
that, though every other soil condition is per- 
fect, if there is a shortage of soil moisture at 
any time during the period of growth, a full 
crop Is Impossible. So essential to success is a 
constant and liberal supply of soil moisture, that 
many gardeners are installing overhead sys- 
tems of irrigation. Therefore, in the selection 
of a location for garden work, it is well to con- 
sider the question of w^hether a bountiful sup- 
ply of water is easily available for irrigation. 
Successful crop production and satisfactory 
profits are much more likely to be certain with 
an Irrigation plant than without it. 

The character of the climate Is a tremendous 
factor in the growing of vegetables, and climatic 
advantages and disadvantages should be most 
carefully considered in deciding on the crops to 
be grown. High temperatures are essential to 
some crops and disastrous to others. High 
humidity is required by some vegetables and is 
harmful to others. Some crops must have a 
long season, while others, such as the radish, 
may be matured in less than a month. A host 
of gardeners are attempting to grow and to 
make garden crops pay under climatic conditions 



VEGETABLES 23 

which are most unfavorable to the vegetables 
selected. While this is true, it should also be 
remembered that market conditions are often so 
favorable that one is justified in growing vege- 
tables where soil and climatic conditions are 
most unfavorable. For example, I know a 
gardener who gets fancy prices for eggplants 
grown in a cool mountain region which pro- 
vides very poor conditions for this vegetable. 

The ability to produce a garden crop may de- 
pend largely upon the aspect of the land. This 
is especially true in the growing of early crops. 
Gardens which slope to the south or southeast 
are the warmest, and this is a most decided ad- 
vantage in the production of early crops. 
Again, the value of windbreaks or protection 
from cold north and west winds should be con- 
sidered. Hills, woodlots, orchards, and build- 
ings sometimes afford the necessary protection. 
When these do not exist it is a simple matter to 
establish windbreaks. One of the most effective 
and attractive windbreaks of my knowledge is a 
double row of mixed evergreens, mainly Nor- 
way Spruce, interspersed with deciduous trees. 
The white and purple flowers of the lilac, ap- 
pearing in great profusion at intervals in the 
windbreak, with dark evergreen for a back- 



U THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

ground, excite constant admiration. Wind- 
breaks should be more generally used by Ameri- 
can gardeners. 

Transportation facilities should be fully con- 
sidered in the selection of a location, or in de- 
ciding the extent to which vegetables should be 
grown on any farm. A good wagon road Is 
especially important to Insure speedy and satis- 
factory delivery. For a large business enter- 
prise, a motor truck may be found of advantage. 
It has been clearly demonstrated that the cost of 
hauling vegetables, especially long distances, is 
less by motor power than by horse power. In 
other words, gasoline furnishes cheaper motive 
power than oats. With a smooth, hard, level 
road, vegetables may be transported twenty- 
five miles or more by auto trucks, although the 
shorter hauls are, of course, much less expens- 
ive. 

The cost and availability of stable manures 
are also important factors. With the increased 
use of automobiles and delivery trucks in the 
cities, the supply of manure will become less and 
less. This is a strong argument for the farmer 
who keeps live stock to engage in gardening, 
perhaps as a side line to his regular business. 

Experiments at The Pennsylvania State Col- 
lege show that the productive power of a lime- 



VEGETABLES 25 

stone soil may be economically maintained, per- 
haps for an indefinite period, by the judicious 
use of lime and fertilizers applied in a four- 
year rotation of wheat, clover, corn, and oats. 
In other words, it would be possible for one to 
produce these crops, feed them to live stock, and 
use all of the manure for the growing of vege- 
tables. 



CHAPTER III 

HOTBEDS, COLD-FRAMES, AND GREEN- 
MOUSES 

SUCCESS In vegetable gardening depends 
very largely on the earliness of the prod- 
uets. Prices usually decline rapidly 
after the first home grown vegetables are placed 
on the market, and a difference of only a few 
days in reaching the market with any product 
may make an appreciable difference in the 
profits of the season. 

Many vegetables, such as cabbage, lettuce, 
tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers, must be 
started under glass in order to reach an early 
market, and this necessitates the construction of 
hotbeds, cold-frames, or greenhouses. Hot- 
beds are generally employed by all classes of 
vegetable growers unless greenhouses are avail- 
able to take their place. Hotbeds are also em- 
ployed for the forcing of vegetables to maturity. 
Pettuce, radisiies. and beets are the most com- 
mon crops forced in them, although many other 



HOTBEDS, COLB-FRAMES n 

vegetables are sometimes grown to maturity in 
hotbeds. 

Since the hotbed is generally started late In 
the winter while there Is severe weather, It is im- 
portant to select a protected spot for it. A 
farm building north of the frame may give the 
necessary shelter. If this does not exist, and 
the location is swept by hard winds, a solid board 
fence may be constructed and this will also be 
found convenient for the drying of straw mats. 
A southern or southeastern exposure Is always 
best for hotbeds, cold-frames, and green- 
houses. 

The depth of the hotbed and the amount of 
manure which should be used depend on several 
factors. In very severe climates and for mid- 
winter service, the depth must be greater than 
for mild climates and spring use. In some sec- 
tions It Is customary to have at least thirty Inches 
of manure in the pits, while In others half 
that quantity will suffice. Ordinarily, twenty- 
four inches of manure are ample for the start- 
ing of early spring plants, so that the pit need 
not be more than two feet deep. The digging 
of the pit should be attended to in the fall before 
there Is hard freezing weather. Leaves, straw, 
or coarse manure should be placed in the bottom 
of the pit to prevent freezing. 



28 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

The frame for the hotbed may be made of 
wood, brick, or concrete. The latter material 
is most desirable, although wooden frames are 
in more general use. The frames should be 
made to accommodate the size of sash to be em- 
ployed. Standard sash are six feet long, there- 
fore the outside width of the frame at the top 
should be six feet. Most sash are three feet 
w^ide and the frames, therefore, may be 9, 12, 
15 feet, or more, in length, according to the 
number of plants to be started. 

Any kind of sound lumber may be used for 
the frame. Cypress is the most durable, al- 
though considerably more expensive than hem- 
lock. Lumber that is an inch thick will serve 
the purpose, although two-inch planks make a 
stronger and more desirable frame. Ordi- 
narily, the boards or planks are nailed to 2 x 4 
posts placed at intervals of several feet. Some 
gardeners prefer to use any kind of old boards 
for the sides of the frame below ground and 
a movable frame for the top. Whatever the 
type or form of construction, the frame should 
be six inches higher on the north than on the 
south side. 

While frames are sometimes made without 
crossbars, they are a great advantage for the 
support of the sash and they also give strength 



HOTBEDS. COLD-FRAMES 29 

and rigidity to the frame; 2x3 inch pieces are 
ample in size. They are placed 3 feet apart 
when 3x6 foot sash are used, and if desired half 
inch strips may be nailed in the middle on top of 
them. This will prevent binding when the sash 
are handled. 

Fresh horse manure has been found to be the 
best heating material for hotbeds. To give 
the best results, it should contain about two 
parts of solid excrement to one part of bedding, 
such as straw or leaves. 

The manure for the pit should be prepared 
under cover. A warm stable is suitable in a 
severe climate. The manure is tramped fairly 
compactly in piles four or five feet wide and four 
feet deep. If the manure is very dry, some 
warm water may be necessary to insure rapid 
and satisfactory heating. The object of plac- 
ing the manure In the piles Is to start fermenta- 
tion before it is placed in the pits. Failure Is 
often due to this neglect. Fermentation will be 
well under way in a few days, after which the 
manure should be restacked by placing the outer 
parts of the original pile In the Interior of the 
new pile. About two days later the entire mass 
should be hot and then the pit should be filled. 

If It Is desired to begin sowing seed the tenth 
of February, preparation of the manure should 



30 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

be started about a week In advance. When 
filling the pit, it is best to add layers of five or 
six inches of manure, tramping each layer in 
order to prevent too much settling of the entire 
mass. It is especially Important to pack the 
manure in the corners and along the sides of 
the frames. Hot manure is also banked to the 
tops of the frames on the outside. After the 
manure in the frame has settled for a day or 
two, soil is placed on top of it, the amount de- 
pending on the use of the hotbed. An Inch or 
two of soil will be an advantage In absorbing 
the steam and gases of the manure. If seed is 
to be sown directly in the soil, without using 
flats, three or four inches of soil should be 
used. If the hotbed is to be employed for forc- 
ing purposes, as, for instance, the growing of 
radishes and lettuce, five or six inches of soil 
will be necessary for the best results. 

Instead of using manure-heated frames, many 
gardeners use either steam or hot water by run- 
ning a coil or two of inch to one and one-half 
inch pipe around the Inside of the frame and 
immediately under the crossbars. It is some- 
times possible to make connections with the 
boiler of the furnace which heats the residence 
of the grower. With steam or hot-water heat- 
ing, the frames may be used all winter, al- 



HOTBEDS, COLD-FRAMES 31 

though greenhouses are preferable when either 
method of heating Is possible. 

Most hotbed sash are made of cypress. 
Cedar Is also excellent. These woods are very 
durable and with proper care will last for 25 
years or longer. While the heavier sash are 
stronger and somewhat more durable, sash 
made of one and three-eighths Inch stuff are 
highly satisfactory and much easier to handle. 
A bracing rod across the middle Is Important, 
and the mortised joints of the frames should be 
leaded to insure durablhty. It pays to paint 
the sash every other year and to keep them un- 
der cover when not In use. 

Cold-frames are of great value In starting 
early vegetable plants. The usual plan Is to 
sow seed In the hotbed and transplant the small 
seedlings to the cold-frame. The cold-frame 
used by vegetable gardeners differs from the 
hotbed in being placed on top of the ground; 
excavation Is not necessary and no manure is 
used inside of the frame but It is valuable when 
banked around the outside. Like the hotbed, 
it should have a slope of about six Inches to the 
south or southeast. A protected location is ex- 
ceedingly important. 

The frames may be of any desired length; 
it is not uncommon to see them several hun- 



32 THE VEGETABLE GABDEN 

dred feet long. When two or more frames are 
used, there should be ample space between them, 
so that snow may be disposed of and the sash 
handled easily. Unless economy of space is 
absolutely essential, there should be lO or 12 
feet between the frames. 

The frames are simple in construction. In 
large commercial establishments, after the 
ground is graded, stakes are usually driven at 
convenient intervals, and to these the sides and 
ends of the frames are nailed. Ten-inch 
boards or plank will do for the lower side and 
twelve-inch for the upper. Sometimes a 
greater depth of frame is obtained at the upper 
side by using t^'o boards, each about eight 
inches wide; then, with a ten-inch board on the 
lower side, a six-inch slope will be obtained and 
the soil of the cold-frame will be perfectly level. 

The cold-frame may be used for a great 
variety of purposes and the soil should be made 
as good as possible. A large supply of water 
will be needed and it should be easily accessible. 
The best plan is to have the water piped be- 
tween the frames with spigots conveniently ar- 
ranged for the attachment of hose. 

Hundreds of commercial growers have found 
it profitable to operate greenhouses. The 
greenhouse is more satisfactory than the hot- 



HOTBEDS. COLD-FRAMES 33 

bed for the growing of early plants, and it is 
also preferable for forcing purposes. There 
is no reason why thousands of garden makers 
should not have small greenhouses. They in- 
sure summer-time the year around on a part of 
the place and may be made a source of great 
pleasure as well as profit. 

The best construction is none too good. 
Cypress should be employed for all wood parts. 
Iron should be used as much as possible for 
supports and purlins. Concrete and iron posts 
may enter into the wall construction. Glass 
of high quality is the best and cheapest in the 
long run. Sash bars should never be closer 
together than sixteen inches. Hot water is the 
best form of heating for small houses because 
it requires the least attention. 

While raised benches are convenient, espe- 
cially in starting early plants, they are not es- 
sential. Many of the best and largest houses 
do not contain benches or even wood or con- 
crete sides to solid beds. In these large houses 
there are practically no obstructions to tillage 
operations. Large doors are often provided 
and horses and horse implements are used in 
preparing the land for the various crops. This 
is farming under glass on the most intensive 
scale. Greenhouses on either large or small 



S^ THE VEGETABLE GABDEN 

places help to provide work for employees the 
year around. Many sections of the North 
ofter splendid inducements for vegetable forc- 
ing. 



CHAPTER IV 

STARTING EARLY VEGETABLE PLANTS 

IT Is presumed that a hotbed has been made 
in accordance, perhaps, with the instruc- 
tions given in Chapter III, or that a green- 
house is available for starting the seedlings. 
A cold-frame is also desirable for the hardier 
plants, such as lettuce and cabbage. 

Many plant growers prefer to sow in shallow 
boxes, often called flats, instead of directly in 
the soil of the greenhouse or hotbed. They 
are very convenient and give fully as good re- 
sults as, and sometimes better than, bed sow- 
ings. Flats need not be more than two inches 
deep, although less attention to watering will 
be required if they are three or four inches deep. 
To offset this advantage there are the disad- 
vantages of a larger supply of soil to fill the 
boxes and increased weight, which is especially 
objectionable when the boxes are taken to the 
field. Boxes 16x20 or 22 inches in size may 
be easily handled, when filled, by boys of fifteen 

35 



.u; Tin: VKCKTAULE GAUDFX 

vc.ns. |Mo\idcd the boxes arc not more than 
t\\\^ lUvlu's deep. 

Mats are often ni.uie from store i^ooJs boxes 
nnd this m.u be il\e el\eapest way to obtain 
(hem. Hoxes in whieli soap and canned i^oods 
ha\e been shipped are conNcnient lor this pur- 
pose, riicy may be ripped into two-inch sec- 
tions M\d extra bottoms supphed trom larger 
boxes. \Vl\ate\er plan is adopted, it is im- 
portant that (he tiats be made to tit the frames 
or r/. w\- ,!u>use benches with the least amount 
ot "u\'^c space. If stored under cover when not 
in use, flats should last four or tive years or 
even longer. 

Kye straw n\ats arc exceedingly important 
for the protection of plants, both In the hotbed 
auvl cold-frame. 1 hey may be made at home, 
but a better and neater machine-made, rye-straw 
mat is now available on the market. It will be 
necessary to have a gv>od rubber hose of sufR- 
cient length to reach all the sash, a nozzle with 
recrangiilar face which is made especially for 
the watering plants, an ordinary watering can 
holding two gallons, transplanting boards, dib- 
bers, and straight-edges. 

The transplanting K^ards are of suincient 
sire to an er the largest Rats. They are best 
made by nailing two K>ards, each eight or ten 



EARLY PLANTS 37 

Inches wide, on two half-inch cleats. The 
cleats must he at the ends of the boards with 
sufficient space between the former to cover 
the largest Hats. A three-quarter inch auger 
is used to bore holes in the board in check rows. 
For cabbage plants there should be a board 
with the holes one and one-half inches apart 
each way, while for tomatoes the holes should 
be two inches apart. 

The wooden dibbers for punching the holes 
are generally made with shoulders so that the 
depth of the holes may be regulated to suit the 
size of the seedlings to be planted. Paper pots 
which may be purchased or made at home are 
often a great advantage in growing very strong 
plants. Some growers prefer them to the 
heavier and more expensive earthen pots, which 
must be collected in the field, returned to the 
potting house, and stored there for use another 
year. 

The soil to be used for starting vegetables 
should be selected from a field which does not 
contain germs of any of the diseases like club- 
root of cabbage, blight of tomatoes, or other 
hindrances to crop-growing. The only certain 
means of avoiding these troubles is to take soil 
from land which has not, for many years at 
least, grown any of the crops which are to be 



38 THE VEGETABLE GABDEN 

started in the soil selected. The soil should 
be as free as possible from stones, sticks, and 
other debris which would interfere with seed 
sowing and transplanting. It should be light 
in texture, if possible, and abounding in decay- 
ing vegetable matter. 

Because of the impossibility of obtaining en- 
tirely satisfactory soil on most farms for the 
starting of plants, it is customary to prepare 
composts. Two or three parts of any good 
soil, one part of rotten manure, and one part of 
sand make a splendid medium for the growing 
of young plants. If desired, the soil and 
manure may be composted out-of-doors for a 
period of four months or longer and the sand 
added just before sowing or planting. 

Whatever plan is used the grower should 
bear in mind that the soil should take water 
freely and not bake hard after watering. Sand 
and manure will obviate these difficulties and 
they may be used in such proportions as are 
necessary. Two quarts of slaked lime added 
to each bushel of hea\w clay soil, besides sand 
and manure, will make it more porous and fri- 
able. The soil should be placed under cover 
in the fall, where it will not be frozen when 
wanted for use during the winter or early 
spring. Hard freezing may be prevented by 



EARLY PLANTS 39 

mulching the soil with several inches of coarse 
manure. 

If the soil is very coarse, it will be an advan- 
tage to screen it before filling the flats. The 
soil will also w^ork better if it contains the 
proper amount of moisture. This may be 
easily regulated by sprinkling with the hose or 
watering pot, w^hile a man turns the pile over 
with a shovel. 

When the flats are being filled, it is important 
to firm the soil w^ell along the sides and in the 
corners of the boxes. A very rapid and con- 
venient w^ay of filling plant boxes is to place a 
half dozen of them around the pile of soil and 
shovel a surplus of soil into each box. A 
straight-edge is used to level the soil, and after 
the latter is pressed with the hands the same 
Implement is employed to level the surface. 
The box is now ready for sowing. 

If the soil is heavy, a special advantage will 
be gained by sowing in rows instead of broad- 
cast. If the broadcast method is used and the 
soil is subject to baking, the seedlings in strug- 
gling to reach the light will lift up cakes of soil 
as large as the hand, and the result will be many 
crooked and crippled plants. When the seed- 
lings are sown In rows, the young plants assist 
each other In their struggle and nearly always 



40 THE VEGETABLE GAFDEN 

come up perfectly straight and erect. This is a 
great adv^antage in the process of pulling and 
transplanting seedlings. 

In planting such vegetables as cabbage, let- 
tuce» and tomatoes, about one dozen seeds 
should be sown to each Inch of furrow. No 
harm will result if as many as fifteen seeds 
should be dropped occasionally In an inch of 
furrow. The furrows are easily and quickly 
made by the use of a straight-edge made from 
any thin piece of lumber, such as a plastering 
lath, which should be about one-half Inch less 
In length than the width of the box to be sown. 
The straight-edge Is pressed Into the soil to 
the desired depth, which should be about one- 
fourth of an Inch for cabbage, lettuce, tomatoes, 
cauliflower, peppers, and eggplant. 

The most rapid way to sow Is with an en- 
velope. Take an ordinary envelope and seal it. 
With a sharp knife or a pair of scissors cut It in 
two In the middle. In sowing, simply scoop up 
a quantity of seed with the envelope and with a 
rapid movement of the hand back and forth 
along the row distribute the seeds as evenly as 
possible in the furrow. The latter may then be 
closed by drawing the thumb and Index finger 
along the sides of the row; or if preferred the 
furrows mav be closed bv the use of two small, 



EARLY PLANTS 41 

flat sticks, such as pot labels, pressed against 
the rows. Immediately after covering the 
seeds, the ground should be made firm by the 
use of a block of wood and then thoroughly 
watered. 

The flats are then placed on an inch or two 
of soil in the hotbed, which has been filled with 
manure four or five days before, or on the 
greenhouse bench. Unless the weather is 
bright and sunny and very warm, no more water 
may be needed until the plants are up. The 
question of watering, however, is a matter of 
judgment, and experience is required to avoid 
mistakes. The ground should be kept fairly 
moist until germination is complete and then 
the appearance of the soil will be the best index 
as to whether water is needed or not. If the 
plants make a fairly rapid growth and possess a 
dark green color, the watering has been satis- 
factory. If, on the other hand, the plants are 
spindling and light green in color, the probabili- 
ties are that too much water has been applied. 
It Is important to see that the watering is uni- 
form, and especial care should be taken to 
keep the soil moist in the corners and along the 
sides of the flats. 

Some fresh air should be admitted to the 
frames every day unless the weather Is too 



4^> THE VEGETABLE GAEDEN 

severe. Excessive moisture In the soil as well 
as in the air of the frames or greenhouse, to- 
gether with high temperature, invariably re- 
sults in poor plants. If the hotbed is started 
during severe weather, care must be exercised 
that cold draughts do not strike the plants. 
This can be accomplished by opening the sash 
on the side opposite the direction from which 
the wind is blowing. 

In cold weather, protection of the plants is 
necessary In addition to the covering afforded by 
the sash. As previously indicated, rye-straw 
mats are most satisfactory for this purpose. 
They should be placed on the sash about four 
o'clock in the afternoon, or earlier If the 
weather is very cold, and removed In the morn- 
ing as soon as the sun appears. The time of 
covering or removing the mats from the sash 
will depend, however, entirely on weather con- 
ditions. . Effort should be made to maintain a 
night temperature of not less than 40 degrees 
for the hardier vegetables and 50 to 60 degrees 
for the more tender ones. A day temperature 
of 60 In cloudy weather Is suitable for cabbage, 
while the tomato prefers a temperature 10 de- 
grees higher. In sunny weather, the tempera- 
ture will run much higher but with no detriment 



EARLY PLANTS 43 

to the plants, provided the frames or green- 
houses are properly ventilated. 

In about three weeks the rough leaves of the 
seedlings will be well formed and transplanting 
should be started. If the plants have been 
given the proper attention, they will be about 
two inches high and strong and sturdy. Soil 
for the flats should be prepared as previously 
directed in this chapter. Before filling the flats 
with soil, about an inch of rotten manure is first 
placed in the bottom of them. This will help 
to nourish the plants, and will make it possible 
to remove them at the time of transplanting 
with the maximum quantity of soil and manure 
adhering to the roots. 

It is exceedingly important that the boxes be 
so full over the entire surface that the trans- 
planting board will press firmly against the soil 
at every point. Unless this condition exists 
the soil will crumble into the holes when the 
dibber is removed. The transplanting board is 
held in place by one hand while the other quickly 
punches the holes. It is then removed and a 
plant is dropped into each hole; the plants 
should always lean back or away from the 
dropper. 

The work of dropping is most economically 



44, THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

done by children and a man can fasten or se- 
cure the plants for at least four or live drop- 
pers. The thumbs and lingers may be used for 
filling the holes or, if preferred, dibbers, which 
are half an inch in diameter and pointed at the 
tips, may be employed. It is essential that the 
soil particles come in direct contact with the 
rootlets of the plants and considerable pressure 
is necessary to accomplish this. Water if neces- 
sary after transplanting and place the flats in 
the cold-frames. 

If cabbage seed, for example, has been sown 
on the tenth of February, the plants will be 
ready for the cold-frame by the lirst week of 
March. If there is hard freezing weather when 
the plants are shifted to the frames, some pro- 
tection must be given, such as a burlap sack 
placed over the plants when carrying them from 
the transplanting room to the frames. The 
snow should be shoveled out and the frames 
covered with sash two weeks in advance of 
transplanting. 

The general directions given for the care of 
plants In the hotbed will also serve for the cold- 
frame. It is necessary, however, as the plants 
increase in size, to ventilate with greater free- 
dom. By the lirst of April the plants should be 
4 or 5 inches high, or nearly large enough for 



EARLY PLANTS 45 

the field. Unless the weather conditions are 
very unfavorable, practically no protection will 
be needed by the plants during the daytime. 
The hardening process should then be started 
for cabbage and lettuce, so that the plants will 
stand hard freezing in the field. 

More fresh air is admitted every day until 
the sash are left off entirely during the day 
and finally no protection is given at night. 
Water is also used sparingly during the harden- 
ing period. Properly hardened plants possess 
a bluish-green color, and plants of this char- 
acter will stand a temperature of twelve degrees 
below freezing, unless there is very high wind 
in connection with the low temperature, which 
may break the tissues of the stems and cause the 
plants to fall over. 



CHAPTER V 

TILLAGK PROBLEMS 

SUCCESS In vegetable gardening is 
largely dependent on the eharacter of 
the tillage whieh the soil receives. The 
proper kind of tillage is even more important 
than the free use oi fertilizers. Some growers 
would increase their protits if they applied less 
fertilizer and were more faithful in tillage oper- 
ations. By this statement we do not mean to 
minimize the value oi fertilizers, but we do 
wish to convey the idea that a host of garden 
makers place too much dependence on the plant 
foods applied and not enough on tillage. We 
must bear in mind that tillage modities the phys- 
ical properties of the soil: regulates soil mois- 
ture; changes soil temperatures: aerates the soil; 
provides more favorable conditions for the 
work of friendly bacteria: destroys weeds: pre- 
vents surface erosion: and covers and mixes 
with the soil humus-making materials, such as 
stable manures and green crops. 



TILLAGE PROBLEMS 47 

The effects of tillage are so different under 
various conditions that every gardener should 
give the whole subject the most careful consider- 
ation. 

The tillage of land which is intended for the 
culture of vegetables usually begins by plowing. 
In small home gardens the spade is often em- 
ployed instead of the plow, but its use is much 
more laborious and very little better than the 
plow. If coarse stable manures are to be ap- 
plied they should be spread on the ground be- 
fore it is plowed. Manures which have been 
materially changed in texture by decay may 
often be applied to the best advantage after the 
land has been plowed. When the most in- 
tensive systems of gardening are adopted, and 
the spade is used for the first tillage operation, 
it is not unusual to work the manure into the 
soil as spading proceeds. This method, how- 
ever, is much more common in England than in 
the United States. Here the general custom 
is to broadcast the manure on the surface of the 
ground before plowing or spading, or perhaps 
all or a part of the manure is raked or harrowed 
into the soil after it is plowed or spaded. 

Fall plowing Is often an advantage In vege- 
table gardening. The rough, unbroken surface 
holds the snow and water during the winter and 



48 THE VEGETABLE GAEDEN 

early spring and If harrowed the first day in the 
spring when it is sufficiently dry the spring sup- 
ply of moisture will be greater than in spring- 
plowed land. The physical condition of heavy 
soils is usually improved by fall plowing, which 
makes them more porous and friable and easier 
to work. Vegetable matter plowed down in the 
fall is well decayed by spring and is of greater 
value to the crop that follows. Fall plowing 
often makes It possible to plant earlier in the 
spring and thus relieve the pressure of spring 
work. Fall plowing also exposes insect enemies 
to freezing weather which helps to reduce their 
ravages. In the North, where the land is 
frozen to a considerable depth throughout the 
the winter, fall plowing is much more desirable 
than in the South, where the land Is subject to 
leaching throughout the winter. 

All spring plowing should be done at the 
earliest possible date. It Is important, how- 
ever, to wait until the land is dry enough to 
make physical Injury Impossible. The soil 
should be plowed as deeply as possible without 
bringing to the surface hard, unproductive sub- 
soil. 

While deep soil is important, especially from 
the standpoint of soil moisture, it Is preferable 
to have a depth oi seven or eight Inches of 



TILLAGE PROBLEMS 49 

highly enriched soil to ten inches or a foot of 
soil of only medium fertility. If a greater 
depth of soil is needed, a very small quantity of 
subsoil may be plowed up each year without 
detriment until the required depth is obtained. 
When this is undertaken, stable manures should 
be used more freely. 

Ordinarily, the harrow should be used as soon 
as possible after plowing in order to retain soil 
moisture and to pulverize the soil. The kind of 
harrow that should be used Immediately after 
plowing will depend upon the character of the 
land. The light sandy soils may be reduced 
readily by the use of any kind of a harrow. 
The heavier clay soils require disk or cutaway 
harrows for the best results and sometimes, espe- 
cially if the land is quite compact, spring-tooth 
harrows are necessary to secure the proper depth 
of fine soil. If stony areas must be used for 
vegetables, the spring-tooth harrow will be 
found essential In their preparation for plant- 
ing. The acme harrow Is a good pulverizer 
and also It has splendid leveling action. 

Spike-tooth harrows are not used as much as 
formerly, but have been superseded by special 
makes like the Meeker smoothing harrow. 
This Implement contains 58 small disks mounted 
on four rollers. It Is used exclusively as a 



50 THE VEGETABLE GAEDEN 

finishing harrow, and Is as effective as a hand 
steel garden rake. It pulverizes the smallest 
clods to the depth of three or four Inches and 
leaves the surface smooth and even. This har- 
row should be employed by all garden makers 
who require the use of horse Implements. 
Plank drags are also exceedingly valuable In 
pulverizing and leveling the land preparatory^ to 
seed sowing or transplanting. 

Frequent cultivation of garden crops Is essen- 
tial to success. No rule, however, can be given 
as to the frequency of tillage, for this depends 
on the t^'pe of soil and Its moisture content as 
well as on many other conditions. There Is no 
question about the Importance of using the culti- 
vator often enough to prevent hard baking and 
to destroy all weeds before they have made much 
of a start. It Is generally conceded that tillage 
should follow every rain If the ground Is dry 
enough and between rains If the Intervals are of 
long duration. It Is seldom, perhaps, that the 
cultivator Is used more frequently than Is neces- 
sary for the best financial results. 

The spike-tooth and narrow-shovel harrows 
are most popular among vegetable growers be- 
cause they are the best pulverizers and con- 
servers oi soil moisture. In most Instances the 
one-horse cultivators are more serviceable, al- 



TILLAGE PROBLEMS 51 

though the riding cultivators can often be used 
to advantage on large plantations, especially 
for such crops as sweet corn, potatoes, cabbage, 
and tomatoes. Hillers and shovels of various 
descriptions may be obtained and attached 
wherever they are considered an advantage. 

Hand-wheel cultivators in a great variety of 
types may also be obtained. The more com- 
mon forms, such as are sold by seed-houses, 
are highly satisfactory. They are great labor- 
savers and should be more generally used by 
farmers and village garden makers who rely 
too much on ordinary hand-hoes. If all vege- 
tables are planted in straight rows, It is remark- 
able how quickly a large garden may be worked 
with either a single or double-wheel hoe. The 
single-wheel hoes are made to use at the sides 
of the rows while the double hoes straddle them. 
It will be seen at once that cultivation may be 
accomplished much more rapidly with double 
hoes, provided the character of the crop and the 
stage of growth, as well as the contour and con- 
dition of the land, will permit their use. Ex- 
tensive commercial gardeners should have both 
types of hand cultivators, while the single-wheel 
hoes will be found more serviceable In small gar- 
dens where they must be used under a great di- 
versity of conditions. 



52 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Whether hand or horse cultivators are em- 
ployed a certain amount of hand-hoeing is nearly 
always necessary to keep the land free from 
weeds and to maintain the best conditions for 
plant growth. Every gardener should have an 
assortment of hoes, including the hilling-hoe, 
rake-hoe, scuffle-hoe, and narrow weeding-hoe. 
Promptness in the use of hand-hoes is exceed- 
ingly important from the standpoint of economy 
in labor. If this operation is delayed until the 
spaces between the plants become hard and 
weedy, much more labor will be required to 
break up the ground. 

There are two classes of weeders, namely, 
those which are drawn by horses and the small, 
hand t}^pe. Horse w^eeders may be used in cul- 
tivating sweet corn, potatoes, and a few other 
crops for a short period after they have been 
started. They are great labor-savers as com- 
pared with cultivators and have the additional 
advantage of stirring the ground betw^een the 
plants in the row. If the ground becomes quite 
hard after heavy rains, sometimes spike-tooth 
harrows can be used to advantage instead of 
horse weeders. 

There are probably ten or more different 
kinds of hand weeders on the market. These 
are small tools, seldom more than a foot In 



TILLAGE PROBLEMS 53 

length, that are used between plants in the rows. 
Some contain teeth or prongs, while others have 
blades that vary greatly In form. They are 
especially valuable for such crops as onions, 
beets, radish, carrots, and other vegetables 
which are grown close together. 

All garden tools, when not In use, should be 
kept under cover. They should be cleaned 
when put away, and the Iron parts of the smaller 
tools oiled at the close of each season. If It Is 
desired to protect them from rust. An occa- 
sional painting of the wood parts will prolong 
the life of the tools and Implements. 



CHAPTER VI 

STABLE MANURES AND COVER-CROPS 

THE producing power of any soil de- 
pends more on its supply of humus or 
vegetable matter than on the amount 
or character of plant food which it contains. 
Humus increases the capacity of soils to retain 
water; elevates their temperature; aids in impor- 
tant chemical changes; creates favorable condi- 
tions for friendly bacteria ; improves soil struc- 
ture; and reduces the labor of tillage. It may 
be seen at once that no effort should be spared 
in securing and maintaining a liberal supply of 
humus. 

Market gardeners depend almost wholly on 
stable manures as a source of humus. Crops 
follow each other in such close succession, and 
the plants stand so close together, that there 
is no opportunity to grow cover-crops. As a 
source of humus, stable manures are superior to 
cover-crops or green manures, because they are 
partly decayed when applied to the soil and are 

54 



STABLE MANURES 55 

of greater value to the crops that follow such 
applications than green manures would be if 
plowed under immediately before planting vege- 
tables. 

Stable manures are often the cheapest source 
of plant food. Sometimes they may be had at 
city stables for the hauling, and in many in- 
stances the prices charged are very reasonable. 
The value of the actual plant food which city 
livery-stable manures contain probably seldom 
exceeds two dollars a ton. Intensive gardeners 
often pay this price and sometimes more for 
horse manure delivered on their home railroad 
sidings. 

Practically all the manure purchased by 
market gardeners at city livery stables is horse 
manure. It is drier than most other manures 
and requires great care to prevent the loss of 
ammonia which it contains. Cow manure is 
slower in its action and may be safely applied to 
the land nearer the time of planting than horse 
manure. Stock-yard manure is often available 
at reasonable prices. Hog manure is also slow 
in action and is valued by growers of vegetables, 
but it is seldom available in large amounts. 
Sheep manure is rich in nitrogen and acts very 
quickly. Its high content of nitrogen and fine 
texture make it a favorite manure for garden- 



50 THE VEGETABLE GAEDEN 

Ing, although large quantities cannot often be 
obtained. 

Of all the farm manures, hen manure is the 
most valuable because of its large content of 
nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, and its 
fine texture. It has long been regarded as espe- 
cially effective for the growing of onions and 
other vegetables which require a large amount 
of nitrogen. The United States Department 
of Agriculture places the following average 
values on the manure from different animals : 
cows $2.02: calves $2.18; horses $2.21; hogs 
$3.29; hens $7.07. 

In general farm gardening, it is usually best 
to apply stable manures as fast as they are pro- 
duced in the barn or hauledfrom the city or rail- 
road station. This plan is nearly always the 
most economical so far as labor is concerned. 
Gardeners must bear in mind, however, that 
fresh manure, especially fresh horse and poultry 
manure, applied immediately before the plant- 
ing of certain crops, is almost certain to result 
disastrously. Fresh manures are likely to cause 
a rank growth of the tomato, pepper, eggplant, 
and the cucurbits.^ \yith the root crops, such 
as the turnip, beet, carrot, radish, parsnip, and 
salsify, fresh manure not only causes a rank 

1 .\ny plant of the gourd family. 



STABLE MANURES 57 

top growth but It is detrimental to the best de- 
velopment of the roots. There Is no danger in 
applying large amounts of fresh manure to cab- 
bage, sweet corn, and no doubt some other crops, 
any time previous to planting. 

Market gardeners practicing the most In- 
tensive methods Invariably compost most of the 
stable manure before It is applied to the land. 
Sometimes other materials of fertilizing value 
are added to the compost piles, but in modern 
gardening horse manure Is used almost ex- 
clusively In the piles which are to be spread on 
the gardens or fields. Composting makes the 
manure finer in texture, destroys weed seeds, 
and promotes favorable chemical changes in the 
manure. 

It is customary to stack the manure In large, 
flat piles, four feet deep or more and with 
perpendicular sides. When the heaps are made 
In this manner, there will be practically no leach- 
ing at the sides nor In the interior of the piles, 
and if water Is applied with a hose whenever it 
Is needed, there will be no burning or fire-fang- 
ing with an accompanying loss of ammonia. 
The texture of the manure will be greatly im- 
proved If the piles are forked over once or twice 
during the period of composting which may last 
from three to six months or longer if desired. 



.\^ Till: vfc;ftabi.e gafdex 

Six months is not too much time in which to ob- 
tain the best texture. 

As previously indicated, coarse stable 
manures should be applied before plowing. If 
they are cut up with a disk harrow before plow- 
ing> it will be an advantage in plowing and to 
the crops that are to be grown. All of the 
manures of tiner texture, like those from 
poultry* sheep, and hogs, as well as decayed 
horse and ww manure, should usually be applied 
after plowing and thoroughly mixed with the 
soil by a suitable harrow. Four-tine manure 
forks are generally employed in spreading 
manure, although the machine spreaders secure 
a more even distribution and do the work more 
economically. 

The rate of application \'^ries with conditions 
which must be taken into account. In farm 
gardening, when heavy clover sod is to be 
plow^ed for cabbage, sw eet com, and other vege- 
tables which are cultivated with horses, ten tons 
of horse manure will often give most excellent 
results, especially w hen supplemented with com- 
mercial fertilisers. In the more intensive 
fonm of gardenings much larger sqpplkatMMis 
are cciBEnoti, It fe not mwsual to apphr as kS^ 
as 40 to«^ to the acre when a highly intensive 
svstem is followed, and sometimes we hear of 



STABLE MANURES 59 

gardeners using 50 to 75 tons to the acre. 
Whether such excessive amounts are profitable 
or not is a much argued question. It is highly 
probable that 25 to 30 tons to the acre, applied 
annually and supplemented with commercial 
fertilizers, is ample to maintain the soil humus 
and to produce maximum crops. 

If irrigation is possible, good crops may be 
grown with less manure, although it may not be 
a good business proposition to make any change 
in the amount of manure used because of the 
possibility of irrigation. It is seldom, perhaps, 
that vegetable growers apply or purchase more 
manure during the season than is profitable. In 
many instances sufficient manure cannot be ob- 
tained for as liberal applications as may be neces- 
sary for the best results. 

Because of the impossibility and sometimes 
expense of obtaining large amounts of manure, 
vegetable growers have been forced to rely more 
and more on green manurial crops as a source of 
humus. It has been clearly demonstrated, too, 
that truck farms can be successfully operated 
without the use of stable manure. It has also 
been demonstrated that humus can often be ob- 
tained at smaller expense by the growing of 
manurial crops than by the purchase of stable 
manure. This is indeed a most fortunate con- 



00 Tin: yKL^KTAiu.i: c^andfx 

dition, tor, with the iiuTcascd u<v . : .:.::.^:'.i.^^;lcs 
and motor trucks, the supplies of city manure 
will be reduced, and more wc : ' > will have 
to be ijrown to meet the deini.uis ot the Lrreat 
centers of population. 

There are three classes of manurial crops. 
First> those which are started with a grain crop, 
such as red clover with wheat. On general 
farms this is an ideal pnictice. If the land is in 
the proper statie of fertilit)\ there will be an ex- 
cellent stand of clover and a heavy sod will be 
produced, which, when plowed under, provides 
the most fa\x>nible conditions for many of the 
vegetables. This type of vegetable gardening 
— that is, the growing: of garden crops on gen- 
eral farn^s, w here clover and grass are included 
in the roration f ollowed — will become more im- 
portant. There is probably no other plan of 
furnishing organic matter so econon-'ically for 
the growing of vegerables 

Second, the organic ma: ::.e >o.! iniy be 

maintained and increased dv ::ie use of c.uch- 
crops: that is, n-e, crimson clover, vetch, or 
other crops, may be sown in the vegetable 
garden at the last cultix^ation which may be per- 
formed any time from about the middle of July 
until the first of September. The seed is sown 
broadcast and the e;:'::%'ation will cover the 



STABI.E MANVIIKS Gl 

most of it. More or less of the catch-crop will 
be destroyed in harvesting the vegetables, but 
there will be enough left, if a good stand has 
been obtained, to greatly Increase the soil liumus. 
7'his plan is very popular in many gardening 
regions, especially where It is difficult to obtain 
stable manures. Crimson clover does reason- 
ably well as a catch-crop on sandy soils. Being 
a legume, It acquires free nitrogen from the at- 
mosphere, and this Is used to great advantage 
by the vegetables that follow. Not less than 
fifteen pounds of seed should be sown to the 
acre. Rye Is also largely used as a catch-crop. 
It grows In any kind of soil and makes a dense 
growth If plenty of seed Is sown. Ihree 
bushels of seed to the acre will make a very 
dense growth. Rye and vetch are often sown 
together. 

Third, In Impoverished soils It often pays to 
start manurlal crops by themselves and plow 
down one crop after another until the land Is 
well enriched with organic matter. For ex- 
ample, rye may be sown In the fall and plowed 
down the next spring when about two feet high, 
and then followed with oats and Canada field 
peas sown together. The oats and field peas 
may be followed with red or mammoth clover, 
or rye, If there Is any uncertainty about getting 



G- THE VEGETABLE GAKDEX 

a good crop ot clover. Seed should be used 
with freedom, and about 500 pounds oi a high- 
grade, complete fertilizer to the acre should also 
be used with each crop. Two or three thousand 
pounds of lime, applied after the oats and peas, 
will hasten the decay of vegetable matter and 
create more favorable conditions for clover by 
insuring an alkaline soil. Soybeans, cowpeas, 
and buckwheat are also grown for manurial pur- 
poses. 



CHAPTER VII 

COMMERCIAL FERTILIZERS 

COMMERCIAL fertilizers are becoming 
more and more a necessity in vegetable 
gardening. Formerly, the growers of 
garden crops near all the centers of population 
were able to obtain horse manure from city 
stables for nothing, or at small cost, while now, 
liberal prices are usually charged and the avail- 
able supply is very much limited. It is not un- 
common for a commercial grower to pay from 
$2.50 to $3.00 a ton for manure delivered on the 
railroad siding, which may be several miles from 
the farm. Under such conditions, the use of 
stable manure is an expensive proposition, and, 
so far as plant food is concerned, commercial 
fertilizers would be found very much cheaper. 
The necessity of humus, of course, must be kept 
in mind, and, unless green manures or cover- 
crops are employed to maintain the supply of or- 
ganic matter in the soil, some stable manure 
should be used annually. 

An additional reason for the use of com- 

63 



(>i THE VEGETABLE GABDEX 

u\cvc\a\ ten ill /cr in conjunction with ni;inure is 
that the hutcr is an unbahuuwl plant food. It 
contains much more of nitroocn, if well pre- 
ser\ ed. than of potash or phosphoric acid. 
Some growers, therefore, reh mainly on manure 
as a source ot humus and nitrogen, and supple- 
ment by tlie application oi potash and phosphoric 
acid. Manure, too. n\ust first undergo de- 
composition before it is available to plants, 
while some tertili/ers, such as nitrate of soda, 
are available as soon as dissolved. liiis often 
gi\es fertili/ers a marked adN-antage, especially 
when it is important to force a rapid growth. 
And the latter is often of very great importance. 
I'or example, when vegetables are matured and 
harNCsted in close succession, several crops may 
be grown on the same land in one season. 
Rapid growth is Important also from the stand- 
point ot qualitw 

While nitrogen is supplied in large amounts 
by the application of stable manures, it is usually 
profitable to use at some time or other during 
the growing season nitrate of soda or other con\- 
mercial forms containing a large percentage of 
nitrogen. This element is especially important 
in the growth o{ \c,\\c$ and succulent stems and, 
therefore, such crops as cabbage, kale, Swiss 
chard, celery, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts. 



COMMERCIAL FIJRTILIZIJRS (J5 

onions, spinach, parsley, endive, sweet corn, and 
asparagus are most benefited by its application. 

The value of any given form of nitrogen de- 
pends largely on its availability. For this 
reason, nitrate of soda is used to a great extent 
by all classes of vegetable growers. It may be 
mixed with other materials or applied sepa- 
rately. A common plan is to use some nitrate 
of soda in a complete fertilizer applied before 
the crops are planted and also as top-dressings 
during the growing season. It is sometimes dis- 
tributed in shallow furrows along the rows 
which are then filled. A favorite plan in small 
gardens is to sprinkle a teaspoonful or less 
about each plant of tomatoes, lettuce, cab- 
bage, or other plants in need of additional 
nourishment. 

Applications of nitrate of soda are especially 
valuable in the spring after crops have been 
started and before the ground is warm enough to 
promote rapid nitrification. Nitrate of soda is 
sometimes applied broadcast after the crops are 
started, regardless of the location of each plant. 
It is distributed with a swinging motion of the 
hand and arm, just as clover seed is sown by 
hand. If the foliage is perfectly free from dew 
and rain, there will be practically no danger of 
burning or injuring the plants because the ferti- 



tn; Tin: ri:ai:TABLE OAinyEX 

llzer rebounds from the dry leaf surfaces. 
There is no rule regardiuir the proper amount 
of nitrate ot soda to use on an aere. Ordi- 
narily, 100 pounds to the .-v'-.e '.s suttieient, and 
if des'.revi .:s •."..■.-n- .is three or •^^erb..ios tour ap- 
pl'.e.::..^::s //...n l^v^ '-.■.de during the se.:so:i. In 
other words, it . / rounds of nitrate or soda is 
usev' :o t'le .ure at intervals o!' .•■vnit two weeks, 
the •(,^'.::v:s s';:ould he well >;;r'^^..ed with nitro- 
gen. 

It ple:uv ot manure and probahlv nitro- 
genous fertili/ers have been used be:'o:-e ;^l.-n:- 
ing. subsequent dressings of nitrate o; >....-. r/.-v 
show no . '. :t. The g^.irdener should be cer- 
tain that his e-.\ ns v'n n: lack nitrogen at any 
time, for a shoi:ai:e o: tiiis element invariably 
results in light yields. 

Other forms of nitrogen are widely used 
.I'-'on^ ;:.:vv'envns Raw ov s:vv:nied bone fur- 
nishes ::on: ; :o o per een:, o: nitrogen. Al- 
though the nitrogen in this fonii becomes a\'^it 
able ver)' slowly. It is a safe and valuable ferti- 
lizer. Dried blood contains from 6 to 14 per 
cent, of nitrogen and decomposes rapidly. 
Ground fish contains to - to S per cent, of 
nitrogen and is useh v\::nsively by truckers in 
coast sections. T. x c^ varies from 4 to 12 
per cent, of nltrogv : .. d Is regarded as valu* 



COMMEBCIAL FERTILIZERS (J7 

able for the growing of vegetables. When top 
dressings of nitrate of soda are not contem- 
plated, a part of the nitrogen in the fertilizer 
applied before planting should be derived from 
a quickly available source, such as nitrate of 
soda, and a part from more slowly decompos- 
ing materials, such as dried blood, tankage, or 
ground fish. 

While nitrogen is ordinarily the limiting 
factor in fertilizers for vegetables, phosphoric 
acid Is absolutely essential. It hastens maturity 
and must be furnished in ample quantity to In- 
sure large yields. Greater emphasis is now 
placed on phosphoric acid in the growing of 
vegetables than ever before. This Is due 
largely to the fact that practically all the soils 
of the United States are greatly deficient In 
phosphorus. Acid phosphate, derived from the 
treatment of rock phosphate. Is the chief source 
of supply, although the animal bone meals are 
Important. The acid rock phosphates range 
from 12 to 1 8 per cent, of available phosphoric 
acid. Floats, which are simply the untreated 
rock ground Into a very fine state of division, 
may be used, but they are not so quick In their 
action and have not met with as great favor 
among vegetable growers as with general 
farmers. 



68 THE VECETABLE GARDEN 

Potash Is especially important tor the root 
crops like beets, carrots, kohlrabi, turnips, rad- 
ishes, :\nd parsnips. It also enters largely into 
the composition of most other vegetables. 
Clay soils do not need potash as much as light 
soils need it. Lime and vegetable matter in the 
soil help to release the natural stores of potash 
but their value in these respects is somewhat dis- 
puted. Muriate of potash, sulphate of potash, 
and kainit ^ arc the most important sources. 

The rate of application of commercial fer- 
tilizers depends on the character of the soil, 
previous crops grown, previous fertilizers em- 
ployed, moisture conditions of the land, the Im- 
portance of early maturity, possibility of irriga- 
tion, and the needs of the crops to be grown. 
In the most Intensive types of gardening, it Is 
not unusual to apply two tons to the acre. In 
the great Norfolk trucking region, a total of 
;ooo pounds to the acre annually is frequently 
used. 

A ton of a high-grade, complete fertilizer 
for an acre of cabbage, sweet corn, potatoes, 
and many other crops is often a profitable 
amount to use. although the usual practice for 
such crops is to employ half this quantity, espe- 

^ Described as " a colorless to dark flesh-red hydrous 
potassium-magnesium chlorsultate." 



COMMEllCJyiL FJJRTTLTZERS 09 

dally If the land has been dressed with stable 
manure. As a rule, however, it is a safe busi- 
ness proposition to apply as much plant food as 
the crops can use to advantage, and this is espe- 
cially true in market gardening which, next to 
vegetable forcing, is the most intensive type of 
vegetable gardening. When plans are made 
for a gross return of several hundred dollars 
to the acre, there should be no hesitancy in 
spending, say ten dollars more for fertilizer 
than what might be regarded as barely neces- 
sary for a good crop. 

On the other hand, every vegetable gardener 
should be cognizant of the fact that dangers at- 
tenci the use of excessive amounts of chemical 
fertilizers. In the Norfolk region, for ex- 
ample, it has been found that lands heavily 
fertilized annually with chemicals will. In time, 
become so acid that they will fail to produce 
satisfactory crops of some of the most Impor- 
tant vegetables. The only safe course, there- 
fore, when fertilizers are used In large quantity, 
Is to apply lime as often as may be necessary to 
correct unfavorable soil conditions. It has 
been found exceedingly valuable in the Norfolk 
region where there has been an excessive use of 
commercial fertilizers. Ordinarily, one ton of 
burned lime will be ample for an acre. 



;o 77//: JiunyrAHLi: a audkx 

It' [M-ctcrrt\l, (he ground linicstonc may be 
usi\l instead ot burned lime, but about twiee as 
nuieh will be needed to seeure the same etleet. 
No doubt, there are i\undreds ot aeres de\ oted 
to vegetables whieh do not need more than half 
a ton ot burned lime io obtain the most favor- 
able soil eonditions. The benetits ot lime in 
eorreeting soil acidity, improving the phvsieal 
properties o( soils, destroying toxins, releasing 
plant tood, and hastening the deeav ot vege- 
table matter, are so great that most gardens 
should bo thoroughly limed at interN als of about 
four years. 

It is unnecessary to discuss at length the 
methods which may be used in applying fertil- 
i/crs. In small gardens, scattering with the 
i\and is \ cry satisfactory. For tields and largx^ 
g;udens, all sorts o\ fertilizer drills and dis- 
tributors are on the market. 

In purchasing complete fertilizer, the cost ot 
a pound ot nitrv\i;en. phosplioric acid, and potash 
should be considered, and not the cost of a ton 
ol the fcrtili/er. As a rule, the highest grade 
fertilizers are the best and most economical, 
from CN erv standpoint. If desired, tiie ma- 
ter* :'.< ■••:v be bor.i:!'.: sc^i\::-.;telv and niixed at 
ho:-..v I he wholv- /.v .\^s.:ion is exceedingly 
simple and the labor of home-mixing need not 



COMMKliCTA L FIJNT! LIZIJRS 71 

exceed lilly eenls a ton. A sand sereen, flat- 
hoUonied sliovel, and barn scales comprise the 
e(|iil|)inent needed for honie-rnixin^. Knowing 
the composition of each material, the jrardener 
can soon delermlne just how much is needed to 
^et a fertili/er of a required composition. 



CHAPTER VIII 

THE SEED srrri.Y 

GOOD seed is one oi the important fac- 
tors In prodiieing large crops oi choice 
xegetables. Seeds can scarcely be con- 
sidered good unless they meet the following re- 
quirements : 

i^ I ) Seed must be true to name, and not 
mixed. It Is unfair for a dealer to make sub- 
stitutions for varieties ordered without the con- 
sent ot the purchaser. It Is also dishonesty of 
the worst type for a dealer to mix turnip or cab- 
bage seed with caulltiower seed, and no trust- 
worthy seedsman Is ever found guilty of such 
practice. 

(:"> Seed must produce the best type of the 
variety selected. The experience of practical 
growers and the Investigations of seed growers 
and experiment stations show that there is 
marked variation in the standard varieties of 
vegetables. One strain of Jersey Wakeheld 
cabbage or Earllana tomato may produce sev- 
eral tons more of cabbage and tomatoes to the 

7i 



THE SEED SUPPLY 73 

acre than other strains of the same varieties. 
In view of this fact, it does not matter so much 
whether one huys Jersey Wakefield or Charles- 
ton Wakefield cabha^e, but it is of the greatest 
importance that the best strain be obtained of 
the variety chosen. The rank and file of our 
vegetable growers do not fully recognize the Im- 
portance of planting the best strains of the lead- 
ing commercial varieties. Ordinarily, vege- 
table gardeners simply buy seed regardless of 
the merits of the strains. If the seed is to be 
purchased, it is important to locate the best 
strains of the varieties desired. 

(3) Seed must be viable; In other words, a 
large percentage should grow under favorable 
conditions. 

(4) Seed must be free from weed seeds. 

(5) Seed must be free from grit, or other 
Impurities, or foreign materials. 

Every grower of vegetables may add largely 
to his pleasure and perhaps to his profits by the 
breeding of the best garden seeds. Funda- 
mental principles, however, must be recognized, 
or no progress will be made. A host of gar- 
deners have made the mistake of selecting 
choice specimens here and there with little re- 
gard to the specific qualities of the plants from 
which they have been taken; or, worse yet, fine 



:i 77/7': ri:cri:rABLi: candex 

spcciniciis h.ivc been picked out in the packing 
lunise tor seed purposes. It is a well-known 
tact that a very poor plant may produce a tine 
tomato or melon, bur it Is tolly to save fruits 
from such plants for seed purposes. The only 
safe principle to follow to insure progress, or 
at Ic.-.st to :r..r.!U.r.n the excellence oi a strain, is 
to :\\\\i:;v.. c ::;c plant as the unit. 

When making selections for seed purposes, 
such questions as these should h.i\ c co:'.sidera- 
tion : Is the plant healthy and vigorous : Is it 
productive? Are its products satistactorv in 
si.'e. sh.ipe. color, soliditv. qualitv ? Does it 
produce too much or too little foliage? Is it 
sufficiently early? 

rhe breeder should ha^•e well-detined ideas of 
tlie points -^:' :•'.' s;:-.nn desired. It *< '-''iv^r- 
tant to m.:xc .: /wC.^.d of such ideals f.^r :.;:;:';e 
guidance. Hear in mind, too, that plants difter 
greatly in their power to perpetuate their good 
qualities. This :::.-kes it important to kcc:^ .-. 
careful record ot c.-ch plant from whicli s-^v\-.- 
mens are selected. This is a very sinv- '. tter 
and may be worth hundreds or even : :. .s ::uis 
of dollars to the commercial grower. 

Most of the g-arden seed used in t:.c Ir.ited 
States as well as in foiv;^:: c.\::'.:v'c> ■> p:\^v:;:ced 
bv men who "\:kc :■. bv.< wcss <-^t i:;row:nc ^^^d on 



THE SEED SUPPLY 76 

a large scale. The quality and value of such 
seed depends wholly on the care and skill used m 
its production, as well as on the Integrity of the 
dealer. It is gratifying to be able to say that 
considerable progress has been made in the im- 
provement of seed offered by American dealers, 
yet there is room for advancement. Our coun- 
try has never been able to grow satisfactory seed 
of certain classes of vegetables, such as self- 
blanching celery, and we have had to rely wholly 
on foreign countries for these seeds. At pres- 
ent, wars abroad interfere seriously in procuring 
imported seeds, and international complications 
will undoubtedly encourage the development of 
the seed industry in America. 

It is interesting to note that many of the most 
successful commercial growers save their own 
seed. They do this not because it is cheaper or 
less troublesome than to purchase them, but be- 
cause they are more certain of satisfactory re- 
sults from the home-grown seeds. In some in- 
stances the growers have learned of peculiar 
market demands and these have been met by 
breeding seed which produces just the type of 
vegetable wanted by the consumers to be sup- 
plied. Again, by the skilful breeding of seed 
in the home garden or greenhouse, it is possible 
to grow vegetables of great unifomilty in size. 



7(; 77//: vjxnrrAiu.E candfx 

color, shape. anJ qualltv. It wouki be tolly, 
lunvoNor, tor anyone to attempt breeding his 
own seed without sutKeient knowledge ot the 
principles inNoUed, and the lack ot this neces- 
sarily places a handicap on a great many gar- 
deners. 

Seeds should not be harNcsted until they arc 
practically ripe, or mature. Close watching is 
required with some \egetables to gather the seed 
just at the right time. It produced in pods or 
capsules, ripeness is indicated when they turn 
yellow. Prompt harvesting is important when 
this stage is reached, in order to a\oid loss ot 
seed from the bursting of the receptacles in the 
field before the stems are cut. The stems or 
plants are permitted to drv tor a tew davs be- 
fore threshing. Bright, sunuv weather is de- 
sirable for all the processes ot harvesting, dry- 
ing, and threshing. 

Some seeds, such as tomato, melon, and cu- 
cumber, are enveloped in a mucilaginous cover- 
ing, and thev must stand in their own juice for 
a tew davs. or sometimes longer, in order to 
loosen the con ering by means of fermentation. 
The seeds are then easily washed in a tub, cn^ck, 
or other convenient vessel. The heavy seeds 
settle quicklv to the bottom, while the pulp, 
skin, and light seeds remain on top and may be 



THE SIJIJJ) SUPPLY 77 

poured off. Sev(;nil wasfiin^s arc necessary to 
obtain clean seed. Sieves are often used during 
the process of washing. 

Whether tlie seeds have been cleaned by wind- 
mlHIng or washing, they must be thoroughly 
dried in the sun, in slieds, or in well-ventihited 
rooms before they are permanently stored. 
An excellent plan is to s|)read them in thin layers 
In an open loft where they will not be molested 
by birds, mice, or rats. Care rmist also be 
taken that the seeds are not fro/en before they 
are thoroughly dry, for this is certain to reduce 
their vitality, and It may completely destroy 
their germinating power. 

Seeds may be kept in any room which is free 
from dampness. An ordinary living room is 
entirely satisfactory and the seeds may be stored 
in bulk or In paper or cloth bags. 

When seeds are purchased. It pays to buy the 
best. The price should receive very little con- 
sideration. Make certain that there Is nothing 
better on the market and then buy enough seed 
to last several years, provided It will retain Its 
viability. In large commercial establishments 
this Is an exceedingly Important matter, and an 
increasing number of gardeners are adopting 
this policy. 

The testing of novelties Is always an Inter- 



78 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

esting proposition. We naturally like to see 
vegetables that are superior to those we have 
been growing. Unfortunately, however, per- 
haps 95 per cent, or more of the novelties are 
inferior to the old, reliable, and well-known 
standard sorts. And why discard old, tried 
friends for new ones which may serve us much 
less profitably? There is no possible objection 
to trying the novelties on a small scale, but it is 
folly to make large plantations of them or to 
rely upon them before we know their real 
merits. 

Practically all the seed sold by rehable dealers 
possesses good germinating power. The safe 
policy, though, is to make a germination test of 
all the seeds to be planted, whether they have 
been purchased or saved at home. Much dis- 
appointment and great loss may be avoided by 
this very simple operation. Germination pans, 
plates, and various devices may be used to de- 
termine the viability of the seed, but the best 
method is to plant it under real conditions. 
Shallow boxes, such as the one described in 
Chaper IV, or cigar boxes, will be found con- 
venient for this purpose. 

It is desirable to plant two lots of seed from 
each packet or bag to be tested. With small 
seeds, such as lettuce, cabbage, and tomato, there 



I 



THE SEED SUPPLY 19 

should be lOO in each row, and if the rows are 
four or five inches long there will be ample room 
for a germination test. As soon as the plants 
are all up, counts should be made and the per- 
centage of germination determined. 

One year old seed, if well preserved and 
planted under favorable conditions, will show 
about the following percentages of germina- 
tion: 

Asparagus 90 Okra 80 

Bean 9° Onion 80 

Beet 1 140 Parsley 7° 

Cabbage 9° Parsnip 70 

Carrot 80 Pea 90 

Cauliflower 80 Radish 9° 

Celery 60 Salsify 75 

Corn, sweet 85 Spinach 80 

Cucumber 85 Squash 85 

Eggplant 75 Tomato &5 

Lettuce 85 Watermelon 85 

Muskmelon 85 

Seeds vary greatly in their longevity. That 
depends on kind of vegetable, thoroughness of 
curing, and storage conditions. The following 
table shows the probable maximum time that 
seeds may be kept and then germinate satis- 
factorily : 

Years ^ears 

Artichoke 2 Cabbage 3 

Asparagus 2 Carrot i 

Bean 3 Cauliflower 4 

Beet 4 Celery 2 

1 Botanically a fruit, often containing more than one seed. 



so ruF vfl^ftaiu f (.;akdks 






-llHWtlpt \ s \ \ \\ X \% \\x\ «\x 



VAtrx« 



>\\X\XX\\\\«\«\ 

\\v\xx\x\\\vx\ 
»\sx\\\x\x\\x\ 
s\\\x\\\\\s\\\ 



MA PKi/j ;;.'<'; 

IT is assumed that rr.^/' ^f tfjr: r^;' ' ' ^f 
this little hook hav- rr/.r^: or Je. . :,t 

in vc^ctahlc ^ardcnin^ from a tommcreial 
standpoint; therefore, the question of marketing/ 
should receive some consideration. Men who 
have had lar^^c experience, hoth in producing/ 
and sellin^^, often claim that the sales end of the 
proposition is the more difficult. Certainly our 
a^/ricultural collc^^es, farmers' in'.'-i^'j^e'.. and 
various classc'. of farm paper'. }.;;.,-; ^^, v';rj far 
more attention to the production of farm crops 
than to their satisfactory disposition. 

We now recognize the fact that real problems 
confront the gardener in marketing his crops 
just as they do in growing them, and it is gratify- 
ing that the various forces in agricultural educa- 
tion are now making a serious effort to help 
solve these problems. 

In the first place the grower must bear in mind 
that there are underlying principles to be ob- 



S2 THE VEGETABLE GAFDEX 

served in the suecessful marketliii; of vegetables. 
The ^re.u principle in\oI\ed is that no ettort 
should be spared to please the man and his 
fan\ily who purchase either directly or indirectly 
the vegetables which you grow, Fhis effort in- 
creases consumption and assists In holding prices. 
Any gardener who manages to get a good price 
for an inferior product, whether it is handled by 
a middleman or not. does an injury to the great 
fraternity of commercial vegetable growers. 
Whenever Inferior vegetables iind their way to 
the table of consumers, the effect is to limit con- 
sumption at the time and to discourage the 
housekeeper in placing further orders for vege- 
tables of the same kind. 

Successful marketing means that the consumer 
must be won and so well pleased that he will 
make additional purchases. This cannot be ac- 
complished unless the vegetables are of high 
quality, attractive in appearance, and the con- 
tainers honestly packed. Too much emphasis 
cannot be placed on the Importance of attractive- 
ness. If an article appeals to the eye of the 
buyer, there is seldom difficulty in making a sale 
unless the market is over-stocked. Even,' 
grower of vegetables should make a most care- 
ful study of the elements or factors which count 
for attractiveness, ^>getables must be graded 



MATIKETING 88 

to show off to the best advantage. They should 
be uniform in size, color, shape, soundness, and 
ripeness. 7he packages must also be bright 
and clean, and with fancy vegetables it may pay 
to use tissue paper, lace paper, or other orna- 
ments similar to those used by fruit growers. 

Too much care cannot be exercised in harvest- 
ing vegetables. 7 hey should not be handled 
so roughly as to cause bruising. They should 
be harvested just at the proper state of ripe- 
ness to Insure the best quality, and methods for 
their transportation to market In the best condi- 
tion should be fully considered. 

Tomatoes, for example, which are to be 
shipped long distances and probably held for a 
few days in wholesale houses, retail stores, and 
finally in the consumer's pantry before they are 
served on the table, must be picked in a practi- 
cally green state. By this practice, quality Is 
necessarily sacrificed, a fact which accounts for 
the good demand for home-grown, field, and 
greenhouse tomatoes when the markets are full 
of southern tomatoes. 

The time of harvesting is most closely as- 
sociated with the question of quality. A large 
percentage of the sweet corn which is sold on the 
city markets Is either too green or too ripe. 
Comparatively few growers realize the great 



84 THE VEGETABLE CAFDEX 

importance of having every ear just right when 
It Is sent to market. Millions of cantaloupes 
are Insipid because they were picked before 
they are ripe, and many other examples might 
be glvt^n to show the necessity of marketing 
every crop at the proper time. When a 
grower sells at retail from the farm wagon, 
nothing will establish a friendly market more 
rapidly than to have every vegetable at Its 
proper stage of ripeness to Insure the highest 
quality. 

To gather the crop. It pays to have conven- 
ient baskets furnished with strong handles. In 
large plantations, roadways should be provided 
at convenient intervals. These may be 
permanent roads or provided tentatively for 
each crop by planting strips of the earliest va- 
rieties which are removed before the main har- 
vesting begins. 

Any kind of a shed or farm building can be 
conveniently arranged for the packing of veg- 
etables. The large commercial establishments 
have houses of special construction, and, though 
a great advantage, they are not absolutely 
necessary, especially on smaller places where 
vegetables may be produced as a side Issue. 
^^^latever the character of the building used, 



MARKETING 85 

there must be tables of convenient height to the 
workmen and also sufficient room for the stor- 
age of empty carriers as well as for those which 
have been packed ready for market. 

One of the most Important articles Is a tank 
or tub to be used In washing vegetables and this 
means that there should be an ample supply of 
pure, fresh water. Cleanliness Is one of the 
most Important factors In preparing vegetables 
for market. Sometimes this can be accom- 
plished by the use of a damp cloth, while In 
other Instances It Is necessary to use plenty of 
water. Such vegetables as peas and beans in 
pods do not often need washing, but Immersion 
In a vessel of cold water gives them a fresh, 
bright, clean appearance and also helps to re- 
tain the plumpness of the pods until they reach 
the consumer. A brush as well as water Is 
often necessary to remove the soil that may ad- 
here to beets and other root crops. 

An almost endless variety of packages are in 
use. As a rule, the smaller packages meet 
with greatest favor among consumers. Com- 
paratively few people care to buy as much as a 
barrel of cabbage or potatoes or a bushel of 
tomatoes. The small packages are gaining In 
favor in all markets. They are especially pop- 



86 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

ular if provided with a bale or handle so that 
the purchaser can carry the vegetables home 
without inconvenience. 

If the vegetables are to be hauled or trans- 
ported long distances to market, the carrying 
qualities of the packages must be taken into ac- 
count. 

The nesting abihty of a package is also an 
important consideration. While selling a load 
of produce to retailers or consumers, it is very 
desirable to be able to nest or stack the empty 
baskets or crates so that they will require little 
space in the wagon. 

Grading is universally recognized as a neces- 
sary operation in preparing vegetables for mar- 
ket. The number of grades depends largely on 
the requirements of the market to be supplied. 
Ordinarily, two grades will serve the purpose, 
although at times it pays to make three grades. 
The packages should be well filled, and the veg- 
etables arranged as neatly as possible. 

Hundreds of vegetable growers find that it 
pays to do more or less advertising. It may be 
the pasting of a brand or label on the package 
or perhaps on the vegetable, as when melons are 
labeled. Local newspaper advertisements are 
often effective. A bulletin board at the front 
gate or farm entrance may serve the purpose. 



MARKETING 87 

A business card In the interior of the package 
is one of the best means of advertising. 
Dodgers are sometimes found to be an ad- 
vantage in making sales. Postal cards taste- 
fully illustrated and with just the right com- 
ments are often very good. 

Wagons are in most general use, although 
auto trucks are becoming quite general for the 
delivery of vegetables. Trucks possess de- 
cided advantages, especially when the hauls are 
long and the roads smooth, hard, and com- 
paratively free from steep grades. Under such 
conditions, and when a large amount of prod- 
uce is to be transported, they have been found 
more economical than transportation by horse 
power. 

Co-operative buying and selling organiza- 
tions are being successfully operated in various 
parts of the country and there is no reason why 
every community should not enjoy the advan- 
tages and privileges of co-operation. 



CHAPTER X 

INTFNSIVF OARPFXING 

NO one type of vegetable gardening 
is best suited to all eonditions. On 
thousands ot general farms, and in 
seores of well-known trueking seetions, highly 
intensive methods would not be found feasible. 
Approved lield methods must be followed, in- 
volving moderate applieations of manure or 
fertilizers, ample spaeing between plants, and 
tillage sutReiently frequent to eontrol weeds and 
to keep the ground in a friable condition. 
There are many locations where no other tN-pe 
of vegetable g-ardening would be found prac- 
ticable or protitable. But, with the increase in 
land \'^hies and the general tendency to make 
every acre do larger duty, there is a demand 
for information on how to obtain maximum re- 
turns from a given area, and the purpose oi 
this chapter is to present, in condensed form, 
the data needed to secure the very best results, 
whether a fraction of an acre or one hundred 
acres are under cultivation. 



INTENSIVE GARDENING 81) 

The best seed obtainable must be sown at the 
proper time and in sufficient quantity to give a 
perfect stand of plants. No possible chances 
will be taken by alert gardeners in planting seed 
of unknown quality, and enough of it will be 
used to start a plant at every point where a 
plant is wanted. To be absolutely certain of 
having a perfect stand of plants, it is sometimes 
desirable to sow very thickly with the idea of 
thinning or removing surplus plants. How- 
ever, if the germinating quality of the seed is 
known, and the gardener has had experience in 
sowing, the distribution may be made so skil- 
fully, and the amount of seed used will be 
judged so accurately, that the stand of plants 
will be satisfactory without resorting to thin- 
ning. 

The Intensive gardener will constantly bear 
In mind that humus Is the life of any soil, and 
that there must be no lack of vegetable fiber In 
the soil. If the largest and the best crops are to 
be harvested. The trucker may conclude that 
ten or twelve tons of manure will be ample for 
at least a fair crop, but the Intensive grower 
will place no limit on the amount of manure to 
be applied each year. Forty tons may be all 
that is needed, but, if he Is convinced that 
seventy-five tons will Increase net profits, there 



^> THE VEGETABIJ:: GaEDKX 

will Sf no he^rancY in apphing thit amount. 
A highly sucoe^ful vegeriMe gn>wer at Cleve- 
Imsi, Ohio, has S^ea u:^::ig tor many years $00 
tons innually 01: twdve acres of land. Where 
suov^rss^on cropping is followed, the amount to 
h; :sed on an acre may be applied at various 

sh-e types of vegetable gar 

xry to conqpost all manures 

bc:.r;; > ::he gardens* This 

ie^s:rv>y^ ..: . . . :> _:„ makes the manure 

: : S!0 Aat it mixes more thoron^^^ with the 
soil. As stated elsewhere, a rank growth of 
v:c T^^'es may be avoided by using rotten in- 
<:- f fredi manures^ Sofls of rather low 

fertility may be radically changed and made 
exce^^ii^g!y productive in one season by the 
free iise of manure. 

Instances are known of fertiKzer being ap- 
plied at the rate of two to four tons to die acre. 
It is doubtful, however, whether increase i 
yidds are often obtained by the excessive ;:s^ 
of coDMiiarcnl fertilizers^ It is highly prob- 
able that two tons of a higji-grade fertilizer 
used anDnaOj to an acre of land» m addkion to 
the stable manures a^|£ed» wiQ siqpi^ aA the 
plant food that could possMy be utilized by 
any system of cropp«ng. When the maxiniim 



INTENSIVE GARDENING 91 

fertility is desired, the safest: policy is to be 
somewhat conservative in the amount of chem- 
ical fertilizers used and to apply manures and 
organic fertilizers, like dried blood and tank- 
age, with j/reater liberality. 

Tillage occupies an important place in in- 
tensive vegetable gardening. Yields are often 
limited because the soil has not been well pre- 
pared nor the crops thoroughly cultivated. 
The preliminary tillage for a crop demands 
that the soil shall be in a fine state of division 
to the depth of the plow furrow. Disking be- 
fore planting often helps to make a satisfactory 
seed or plant bed, and this is especially true if 
there are surface applications of manure to be 
mixed with the soil. 

Too much cannot be said concerning the 
necessity of stirring the soil often enough to 
prevent all weed growth and to keep the sur- 
face of the soil in an open, porous condition. 
A productive soil is always well aerated and 
tillage is the means of opening the ventilators. 
No rule can be laid concerning the frequency of 
cultivation for much depends on the texture and 
structure of the soil. Heavy soils require the 
most frequent cultivation. 

It is universally conceded that water is the 
most Important factor In plant growth. The 



M THE VKuFTAlUJE GAUnKX 

land n>ay be most K-^imtifuIlv supplied with 
plant food, but if the content of soil moisture 
is inadequate the crop yields will be unsatistavN 
tor>\ A constant and liberal amount ot mois- 
ture is needed in the chemical and bacterid 
cd<^cal activities ot the soiL Large additions 
of manure are of great vaUie in the building of 
a soil reserx oir. and crv^ps which are planted in 
a soil containing a large percentage of decay- 
ing \^getable matter will not suffer tv» the same 
extent fn>m drought as crv^ps which are grown 
in soils lacking in humus. Xotwithstanding 
the tremendous \^lue of humus in retaining soil 
moisture and of tillage in cv>nser\nng it. irriga- 
tJon must be relied upon to give absolute con- 
trol of soil moisture conditions. The impor- 
tance of irrigation is now universalh* recog- 
nised by all classes of ^^egetable grc>wers whc 
wish K> make yields larger and cror production 
more certain. 

Various methods are employed. /. :he water- 
ing of garden crops, but the overhead system 
possesses the greatest ad\^antages and may now 
be found in all of the important gardening sec- 
tions of the United States, The distributing 
pipes naay range from a few inches above Ae 
g:. -:id to a height iirfiieh will permit man or 
liorse to pass under without any interference. 



INTENSIVE (JAItDENINC; \)% 

The lines avcraji^c ahout ';o ff:f:t apart and ar^: 
fitted vvitii small (Jischar^/c no/z/Jcs at intf-.r'/als 
of four feet. The distributing^ lines are eon- 
netted with tfje y/ater mains or suhmains h/ 
means of [patent unions. /A lever is secured at 
one enf] of each no///Je line by v/hich the entire 
line is turned or revolved at will so that it is 
easily possible to v/ater a strip <A ^/round 2^ 
feet wide an each side of the pipe, d he lines 
may be ".(ivcvd] hundred feet lon^/. I he manu- 
facturers of the supplies ;ij"ve fuil ]n'-AjufX]fjn'^ 
for the installation and (j])<:r'd\'\<m of the over- 
head system. 

Intensive croppin;^ rncdn', that the crops 
should follow each other in as close succession 
as possible. 7'hcre must be no loss of ''.-.-s 
from early spring until late fall. i^Ianting may 
be^^in in March or April and, if quick-maturing 
(,];j,'//;s and varieties of ver^etables are selested., 
four or five crops may be harvested from the 
same area in one s';a .C' 

Succession cr^;.;. - :/ /, ^;• sn closely a-//>si- 
ated v/ith companion cr^s;. ^;. J- or example, 
radishes, lettuce, and cabbage are p]'^-':' to- 
gether at the same time, early in the .pr.-sg. 
7"he rows of early cabbage may be thirty-tv/o 
inches apart and the plants sixteen inches apart 
in the row. Lettuce is planted in the rows al- 



i>i T7ZF rEGE2\iBLE CARDEX 

ternately with the cabbage, and a row of lettuce 
IS also set midway between the rows of c.ibb.iLre, 
the spacing of the plants being eight inches 
apan» or more if desired. Button radishes are 
drilled in rows between the rows of lettuce and 
the arrangement of the three vegetables will be 
as follows: 

C L C L C L C L C 

RADISH 
L L L L L L I L L 

RADISH 
C L C L C L C L C 

The radishes will be harvested first, and then 
the lettuce, and linally the cabbage. With care- 
ful spacing of the crops there will be little in- 
terference of one with another. In order to 
make a combination plan of cropping like this a 
financial success, there must be a satisfactory 
market* of course, for each vegetable. 

Numerous plans for intercropping may be 
ciir^^e.^ out with entire success. Little diffi- 
c;. :uld be experienced in deciding on defi- 

nite pi. Ills, if proper consideration is given to the 
c > > ; ■ : ' ;. \ ' : : : s The gardener must rake into 
-■,::..:::: ;..: :.:::e when each crop should be 
started; the approximate date when each crop 
will be ready for market: the space required 



JNTKNSIVK a A It DKNINC 05 

for CJicfj vegetable throughout flic pcrlrjf] of 
growth; the habil of ciffi 'Li/.s of phuits iri- 
(hj(ic(j in tfic phin; and tiic food unci rnfjibturc 
rc(iuircrncnts of the various plants considered. 



CIIAPTKR XI 

rilF llOMF C^AKIM-N 

THIS little \olunio would not be com- 
plete without A brief discussion of the 
home garden, although every chapter, 
except the one on marketing, is just as ap- 
plicable to the home garden as to the com- 
mercial garden. 

1 he importance ot America's home gardens 
Is ^•ery much underestimated. \Vere a monthly 
value placed on their products, it would amount 
to millions of dollars annually. Every farm 
has its kitchen garden, which occupies a promi- 
nent place In the feeding oi the farmer's family. 
There are days and CNcn weeks in some farm 
homes when the contributions of the kitchen 
garden, in addition to eggs, milk, bread, and 
butter, constitute the bill of fare. If the 
leguminous vegetables — peas and beans — 
enter largely Into the diet, there will be little 
need ot fresh meat, which Is often so dItHcult 
to obtain In the country. The farmer and 

countryman, therefore, should make the most 

9G 



THE HOME GARDEN yt 

careful plans for this — the most Important — 
cultivated area of the entire farm. 

Of equal importance is the vegetable garden 
of the villager and the suburbanite who may 
have difficulty in meeting the increasing ex- 
penses of a growing family. A Pennsylvania 
shopman was reared In a village, twelve miles 
from the town where he works. He supports a 
wife and several children. For several years 
after his marriage he lived in the village where 
he was reared, walking to his work very early 
every Monday morning and returning Saturday 
night. I'here were no trolleys or other means 
of transportation. 

Believing that It would be better to live in the 
town where the shops were located, he rented a 
house and made the experiment — which It 
proved to be for a year or two — and then re- 
turned to the village. There was practically 
only one reason for his going back, namely, that 
four dollars a day would not make his family as 
comfortable in the shop town as In the village. 
Although a cow and chickens were kept at the 
village home, their value did not equal that of 
the large garden which was of great economic 
importance in the support of his family. 

Chapter I presents arguments and suggests 
opportunities for all classes of people, rich and 



i)s Tin: vkl^ktaiuj: cahdks 

poor, young and old, and those weary In mind 
and body, by whieh they may hud rest, reerea- 
tion, and health h\ vegetable gardening, and 
certainly almost our entire population ean tind 
at least some soil (perhaps only a window-box 
in the city tlat) in which a few vegetables might 
be grow n. 

In home vegetable g-ardenlng there should be 
several distinct aims. Quality is of para- 
mount importance* In the selection of varie- 
ties, the question s^hould always be asked, are 
they of the highest quality? Otherwise, you 
are not justified in planting them, unless son\e 
special reason exists. We must not lose sight 
of the fact that rapid growth helps to secure 
high quality. As srated in another chapter, 
vegetables which are gnnvn slowly are likely to 
be tough and tibrous, stringy and bitter, or 
otherwise unpleasiint in flavor. If there is no 
check in growth from the day the plants are up 
until they are harvested, the quality should be 
of the best, if good varieties have been selected. 
Rapid grow th depends on a constant and abund- 
ant supply of soil moisture and available plant 
food, in addition to frequent and thorough til- 

lag«^ 

Again, there should be an abundance of the 
vegctaMes which are in greatest demand on the 



THE nOMK GAniW.N 0!) 

home tai)lc. If (ir)l(lcn I>;uitcirr) sweet corn is 
a gerienil favorite vvilli tfie fcunily, plant a gen- 
erous area so that it can he served liheraDy as 
often as desired. I'he successful home gar- 
dener will try to cater to tfie wishes and de- 
sires of every rnernher of the family. I le will 
also strive to fiave \hc favorite ve^etahles dur- 
ing as long a period as possihle. In this respect 
many gardeners fail. "J'hcy do not realize the 
importance of planting at close intervals, so 
that there will he an unhroken succession of 
vegetahles for t}ie tahle. Too frecjuently there 
is only one planting of sweet corn, peas, etc., 
when there should he several of the varieties 
selected for the purpose of yielding a uniform 
supply over a maximum period. 

Another fault of some home gardeners is 
that the assortment of vegetahles is too limited. 
The fact that a few vegetahles are preferred 
by the family Is not sufficient reason for exclud- 
ing all others. Some of the vegetables of minor 
importance, which are seldom seen on the 
market, are most palatable when properly pre- 
pared and served. 

The home garden should be located as con- 
veniently as possible to the residence of the gar- 
dener. A sandy loam is best, but any kind of 
soil may be quickly improved for the growing 



100 77/7; VKCKTABLi: CrANDKX 

oi N'wgctablcs. rhoro;:cH Jralnaoc Is abso- 
lutely ncwcss.iry. A l^ciuIo slope to the south 
or soy.tluMs: is prct'orablc, but excellent results 
may be obtauied o:-. .:-.v exposure. A natural 
or artltielal wlndbre .^ s . ; ^reat value to pro- 
tect vegetables . •. c" ^cns whieh are swept by 
hard winds. I he water supply, especially if 
irrigation is contemplated, should also have 
careful consideration. 

Hotbeds and cold-frames, and perhaps a 
small greenhouse, are a c'--' .kN .-r.t.ige. 
They make it possible to g:\M\ s: \^:'.g. e.r/ly 
plants and to force to maturity \ egetables like 
radislies. onions, and lettuce when the weather 
IS too cool to grow them out-of-doors. A hot- 
bed of two ; \ o foot sash, and a cold-frame of 
about four sash, will be found exceedingly valu- 
able in any^ home g-arden. 

Almost innumerable plans could be made, 
showing the arrangement of :!ie \ ario;:s cl.-sses 
of vegetables in the li. e garden. The gar- 
de:'er *> ::.::.:rally anxi. .:> :\^r his labor to ao 
co::.v.,s.. .-.s -.-nuch as poss.ble, and planting 
everything in rows running lengthwise of the 
plot will shorten the :. w.-i^^-'^l to drill, 
plant, and cultivate the a ea. 1 ong rows are a 
spedal ad\'antage in drilling and cultivating 
because the operator is not required to turn his 



TIIK HOME GARDEN 101 

tools or implements so frequently. In gardens 
of good size the rows should seldom if ever be 
so close together that hand wheel hoes cannot 
be used. I'hey are great labor-saving devices 
and permit the gardener to spend more time in 
weeding, spraying, or doing other work about 
the premises, and they also enable him to take 
care of a larger area. 

The principle of rotation should be recog- 
nized as far as possible in the home garden. 
It is never desirable to plant cabbage, cauli- 
flower, onions, or any other crop, in the same 
ground year after year. Such practice tends 
to increase and encourage the presence of club- 
root, and many other plant diseases, and insect 
pests. 

In small gardens, companion and succession 
cropping may be used to great advantage. See 
Chapter X. 

The perennial crops, such as rhubarb and 
asparagus, as well as the bush fruits and grapes, 
should be planted at one side of the garden 
where they will not interfere with the annual 
crops. 



CHAPTER XII 

CULTUR-^L DIRECTIONS 

ARTICHOKE — GLOBE 

{Cynara scolymus) 

THE Globe artichoke is steadily gaining 
in popularit}- among American garden- 
ers. It is a delicious and wholesome 
vegetable that should be more generally grown. 
It is easily propagated from seed or suckers. 
Seed sown in the spring will produce strong 
plants for setting in the permanent bed the next 
spring. Plant in rich, moist soil, rows three 
feet apart, plants two feet apart in the row. 
Cut the old plants back to the ground in the 
fall and mulch with about live inches of coarse 
manure. 

ARTICHOKE — JERUSALEM 

{H elianthus tuberosus) 

The tubers of this vegetable, which may be 
ser^-ed as pickles or cooked for salads, are easily 
grown. A very rich soil is not required. The 
tubers are usually cut into two or three-eye 

102 



ASPARAGUS 103 

pieces and planted in the same way as potatoes, 
the pieces being dropped about 15 inches apart 
in the row. After the tops are dead, dig the 
tubers or let them remain in the ground over 
winter. There will be no danger of injury from 
freezing. 

ASPARAGUS 

{Asparagus officinalis) 

This vegetable of European origin has found 
a place in the gardens throughout America. It 
is regarded as one of our most important vege- 
tables, from a commercial standpoint, and no 
home garden is complete without it. A tremen- 
dous quantity is sold for immediate con- 
sumption and a large amount is canned, so that 
this product is served throughout the year. As- 
paragus is of such easy culture, and is so thor- 
oughly enjoyed by almost everyone, that there is 
little or no excuse for not having it in every 
home garden. Many, too, who do not lack 
land area, will find this a most desirable vege- 
table to grow in somewhat larger quantity than 
is actually needed to meet the demand of the 
home table, for it is likely that the surplus can 
be sold without difficulty to neighbors or in 
nearby local markets. 

While a number of varieties are offered for 



^ov 77//: VKCKT ABI:K CAEDFy 

sale by American seedsmen .u\d nurserymen, 
only two varieties need be n\entioned here* 
Palmetto is unquestionably the best known and 
most extensively grown. It Is prv^litic and pro- 
duces large shoots ot excellent quality. The 
plants are also fairly resistant to rust. Re- 
cently, a new variety, Readlnij Giant, has been 
introduced by the Asparagus Experiment Sta- 
tion of Concord, Massachusetts, which is re- 
garded as practically immune from rust. It is 
highly probable that Reading Giant will become 
the leading American variety because of its 
power to resist rust. 

Deep, rich, moist, sandy loams are the best 
soils for the growing of asparagus. Sandy soils 
are particularly desirable if a white product is 
to be grown. There is an increasing demand, 
however, for green '^ grass/' and an excellent 
quality may be produced in any soil that is suf- 
ficiently fertile. A soil that will produce a good 
crop of com will, with proper management, 
grow a good crop of asparagus. 

After a plantation has been established, and 
unusually strong and productive plants are 
found here and there, it may pay to select your 
own seed from them. Many of the most suc^ 
cessful conmiercial growers save their own seed. 
It desired, a few of the best male and female 



ASPARAGUS 105 

plants can be Isolated and used wholly for seed 
purposes. Amateurs as well as market ^^rov.ers 
will derive much enjoyment from producing 
their own seeds. See that the male plants are 
just as good as the female. It is preferable to 
select plants that produce relatively few large 
shoots, rather than many small ones. 7 hey 
should also be irtt from rust. 

7"o propagate new plants, select a rich loca- 
tion in the garden or on the farm. Make it 
still richer by apf/iying plenty of rotten manure, 
of any kind, before planting. After plowing, 
harrow or rake in a complete high-grade ferti- 
lizer, at the rate of not less than a ton to the 
acre. Tlie soil should be in a perfect state of 
cultivation before -^r. y v:^;': ':\ /y.vn. Make the 
rows two feet apart. Drop the seeds about tv. o 
inches apart and cover them with an inch of soil. 
If unusually strong plants are desired, drop the 
seeds 3 inches apart. A hand seed drill may be 
used if a large number of plants are to be 
grown. 

A desirable practice is to drop a radish seed 
every few feet. These will germinate quickly 
and the plants will mark the rows so that culti- 
vation may be begun at once. The asparagus 
plants may not appear for a month because the 
seed germinates very slowly. Give thorough 



loe THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

tillage throughout the summer. Thin the as- 
paragus plants, if a seed drill has been used 

in sowing. If necessan', top-dress the plat in 
July with nitrate oi soda lOO pounds to the acre, 
if the plants are not growing satisfactorily. A 
plan more certain of good results is to top-dress 
with 3 or 4 inches of fresh horse manure, being 
careful not to let the manure come into contact 
with the tender seedlings. 

The plants may be dug in the fall and stored 
during the winter in moist soil, sand, or saw- 
dust. A convenient plan is to tie them in 
bundles of 50 and pack them in barrels which 
may be placed in a cool cellar or buried under 
leaves out-of-doors. 

One-year roots are preferable to two-year 
roots. Experiments have clearly demonstrated 
thar large roots are much more profitable than 
small ones. At The Pennsylvania State Col- 
lege, the largest roots, planted in 190S. pro- 
duced in 1914, $816.72 to the acre, and the 
smallest roots S694.32 to the acre. The con- 
clusion of the whole matter is that oa^ is never 
justified in planting anything but the largest one- 
year roots. This means that the gardener 
should grow two or three times as many roots 
as are actually needed to plant the area in mind, 
select the best roots, and discard the others. 



ASPARAGUS 107 

Mi.^fj Kr. '.e relative pro- 

:, . . .■ : ::■'; : ■/.,-,. The 

■•:, Tlie 

until t: r -^ ^heir 



of 



1" 






;' : ':?^er lives near a 

> 5 ragus. If so, 

it ws in order to 



5ps the better 

-?^^ lots of 



green .' . . /. -^sumers 

rh^.: V. : y. : :-. .•,;;:-. ir: . i . .' ., •, ;r;-,r :y the 



trea- 



icient, although 



lOS 77//: JKCrKTABLi: aAh'DEX 

llkciv be increased by using more, say twenty 
tons to the acre, in addition to 500 pounds oi a 
complete t'ertili/er. 

There is much ditlerence of opinion as to how 
an asparagus plantation should be tertili/ed. 
It is highly probable, however, that at least ten 
tons o( stable manure can be used annually to 
advantage. It is also likelv that the com- 
mercial tertili/er should be employed in two ap- 
plications, the first in the spring ot the year be- 
fore any asparagus is cut i^the manure may also 
be spread at this time"), and the second imme- 
diately after the last cutting of asparagus, which 
is ordinarily about the tirst of July. The fer- 
tilizer should contain not less than 4 per cent, of 
nitrogen, 6 to S per cent, of phosphoric acid, and 
the same amount of potash. The nu^st in- 
tensi\e and successful growers apply not less 
than a ton of fertilizer annually. 

If white shoots are to be grown, it is cus- 
tomary to allow front 5 to feet between rows, 
and the roots are set about : feet apart in the 
row. If green spears are to be grown, it is un- 
necessary to have the rows so far apart: 4 feet is 
sufficient space between rows, although half :\ 
foot more of space is an advantage in culti- 
vating, especially after the plantation is S 
or more years of age. Two by four feet apart 



ASPAUAGUS 109 

Is regarded as highly satisfactory by some of the 
most successful growers. 

Fall [)lanting may be practiced, but spring Is 
the better time. J he land should be plowed no 
deeper than the ordinary furrow slice, nor 
should the roots be planted deeper than this. 
It Is Invariably a disadvantage to have the roots 
In the subsoil because they grow laterally, and 
they fail to find the proper nourishment and 
physical conditions In the subsoil which are neces- 
sary for the most rapid growth. Cover the 
roots at first with not more than 2 Inches of soil 
and Increase the depth of covering as the plants 
grow. 

Thorough tillage should be given from early 
spring until It Is Impossible to get between the 
rows with a horse and cultivator. The most ef- 
fective tool to use early In the spring, the first 
day the ground Is dry enough to work, Is a disk 
or cutaway harrow. This will cut up the soil 
and manure and secure good surface conditions 
before any asparagus Is cut. The spring appli- 
cations of fertilizer may also be made before 
harrowing the land. Various cultivators are 
used during the cutting season and some hand- 
hoelng is usually required to prevent weed 
growth. After the last cutting is made, about 
the first of July, fertilizer may again be applied 



no TUF ri\;rT.UU.K CAKDKX 

and the hnd disked. There .. . :c^rn 

aN>ut the tew shcK^ts that are viestrvnevi by the 
disk harrvnw Others w ill take their place. 

Asparagus must be au every day in very >\'ann 
weather, especially duriixg the mcuuh of May> 
and usually e\^ry other day. 

It is tievl in bunches \^rying in si?e to suit the 
markets tv> be supplicvi Most markets require 
bunches that weigh aKxit Ji pounds. An acre 
should yield at lea:^t 2500 bunches a season. 
The price per bun.^h i:v^nerallv ran^t^^ troin 1 ; 
to t5 cent^. 

The common asparagus beetle is the most de- 
stnictix-e insect pest. It may be cv^ntrolled in 
the nursery by sprayii>g with arsenate of lead. 
Lure rows^ in cutting plantations are often 
sprayed with a poison and this same material 
may be uscvl after the aitting season. Air- 
slaked lime is \^luahle to use on the rows dur* 
ing the cutting season. Coops of chickens in 
and around the plantation will help to keep the 
beetles in check. 

Rust is the onK serious disease of a^aragas. 
If it is pre\^ent in the plantation, cut the plants 
in the ftJl before the lea\^s drop and hum them. 
If Aere is no dBsease, it is better to defer cutting 

vrnQT Iran «ilitr 9«ns «l ili« WdL 



lUJ/l/V 



ni 



the tof)s until early sj^rin^ because they will hr:lp 
to hold the snow un(J they will prevent the boil 
from being blown away by hard winds. 

151:AN 

(I'tiaicolux 'vulgaris hikI I\ lunatus) 
I fiis vcj^cfahlc of A/ncrif an f^ri^in was ^^rown 
by the Indians, and no doubf many varjrfif', y/rrc 
^rown in America heiore tfiey became 
generally known in l^uropean countries. Vroin 
2i historic standpoint, no j_^arden cn;p is of 
greater interest. 

'1 be following classification of [)eans has been 
sii^'^cstrd by C^orbett: 

CLASSlMCA'i JON OV liKANS AiA:()\<\)\S( , 'JO 
GI<0(;j'S ANO J yjM.S 

K\<\ii(:y /Colore^! 

I Whi»e 



J'icld Jicans. . 



Jiu«}l 



Pole or corn hill 



Marrow / f.olorcd 

I VVliife 

j>ea /Colored 

I White 

/Colored 

t White 



Garden Beans. ., 



'liuhh fKUUif.y 

I Llnria 



W; 



Pole 



c'jrccripod 

Wax 
J jvijiia i^Grecnpo 

Kunncr C Scarlet Punn»:r; 



rKiflney fWax 

*-^I>ima \Grecnpod 



Ui THE VEGETABLE GAPDEX 

Giirden ni.ikcrs as well as all classes of con- 
sumers should not fail to recognize the food 
value of beans as compared with that of other 
protein foods. One hundred pounds of lean 
beef contains 21.3 pounds oi protein: 100 
pounds of eggs, 14. S pounds of protein; 100 
pounds of dried lima beans, iS.i pounds of 
protein: and 100 pounds of dried navy beans, 
21.; pounds of protein, or slightly more than 
lean meat: and the beans also contain ;q.6 
pounds of carbohydrates. It is seen at once 
that weight for weight the nutritive value of 
beans is greater than that oi lean meat. All 
classes of green shelled beans also run high in 
protein and carbohydrates. Too much impor- 
tance cannot be attached to bean culture from 
the standpoint oi economy and efficiency in sup- 
plying food to our growing population. A 
larger quantity might be grown to be sold in the 
green state, to be dried and threshed, and to be 
canned for consumption at all seasons of the 
year. 

A matter of gratification to the vegetable 
grower Is that a crop of beans always leaves the 
soil In better condition than It was before the 
beans were grown. In other words, it Is a soil- 
Improving crop and not a soil-Impoverishing 
crop. It traps the free nitrogen of the air and 



niJAN 113 

adds U) ihc supf)ly of tfiis clement In the soil. 

'Ilicrc are so many excellent varieties of beans 
that it is difficult to single out a few of more 
than average merit. A mistake will n(jt he 
made by ordering any of the leading dwarf wax- 
[)odded varieties described in tfie seed cata- 
logues. 'J liere is })robably nothing better than 
15ur[)ee's Stringless among the dwarf green- 
[)odded varieties. Cjod(Jard is a most excellent 
midscason, green, shell bean, and is probably the 
best of its class. (johJen Carmine meets with 
universal favor as a pr>le wax-podded variety. 
Creaseback is a popular early green-podded 
bean. Lazy Wife is also a very good bean of 
this class. Leviathan is a highly superior early 
j)f)le lima bean, and King of the Garden is a 
good late lima. ]^\)rdhook and Henderson are 
widely cultivated bush lima beans. 

Fortunately, the bean may be grown success- 
fully In a great variety of soil types. I'he rich 
sandy loams uncjuestionably furnish ideal condi- 
tions, especially for the early crop. Any soil, 
however, which is well drained and well sup- 
plied with organic matter, will, when properly 
handled, produce good crops of beans. The 
light sandy soils are especially desirable for lima 
beans. 1 he bush llmas arc not uniformly suc- 
cessful on heavy clay soils, nor do any of the 



114 rUK VKuKTAlU F CaKDFX 

various types siKvecd . vk soils, W.ir.n 

sunny c:xposurcs .. ' :: \' !.>c^tiv>as arc 

fti>x>r3iWc K> early r..:. high yields. 

The bean may be v.. ^ v uiy ordinary 

garden or fam\ rotation. It does remarkably 
well following clo\^r. If preferred, the beans 
may follow com. so that the rotation would be 
clox^r. com. beans, and wheat. This rotation is 
pc^pular in Michigan, where na\y beans are 
grown on a large scale. In the home or com- 
mercial garden, there need be no hesitation in 
planting beans wherever and whenever there 
may seem to appear possibilities. The gross 
returns to rfie acre are seldom large, and the CMit- 
lay in time and capital in growing a crop is 
»mJ1. 

It IS not customary to use large amounts of 
hig^i-grade fertiKier for beans. Tlw eariy 
plantings imdoubtedly prv^t niore from appfioK 
ttons of nitrogen than the late ones. It is prob- 
aUe that about 4 per cent, of mtrc^^i should be 
used for beans early in the season., while kss 
than half that per cent, would be sufficient later. 
From 6 to $ per cent, of dbe mineral elements 
^lould be t»nployed; 500 poundb to the acre is 
usually ampk. If plenty of rotten manure is 
availabie to use in the h^l for lima beans^ no 
commercial fertiHier will be needed. 



BEAN 115 

Beans can often be ^rown as companion crops 
with other vcjj^ctiihlcs. lor example, if stniw- 
hcrries are phmted very early in tfie season, husfi 
beans may be planted between the rows oi straw- 
berries as soon as the ^romid is warm enouj^h to 
start the beans. The beans will soon be ready 
to sell in a jjjreen state and the crops will not seri- 
ously interfere with eacli other. A ^reat vari- 
ety of garden croppinjr plims may be employed 
in which beans will constitute one of the 
crops. 

We are so anxious to have real early beans 
for the home table that we sometimes take risks 
in [)lantin^ before the ground is as warm as it 
should be for beans, and before the period for 
killing frosts has passed. If the beans rot in 
the ground, or the plants are killed by frost, the 
monetary loss is slight, and another lot of beans 
may be planted. It is usually safe to make 
small plantings a few days before the customary 
time for planting corn. 

If they are to be cultivated with a hand wheel 
hoe, the bush varieties need not have more than 
I 8 inches between rows, while for horse tillage 
the space should be at least 28 inches. Plants 
on the average of 3 inches apart In the row will 
give a good stand and should produce a satisfac- 
tory crop. Some growers prefer to drop 3 or 4 



lie THE VFaFTAlUF C.lh'DFX 

hcM\$ in hills S iiK'lu^s ap.irt. This method Is 
used l.irgely in ;' . ■. ■ " \"< Norfolk. It 
facilitates the usv . : .;.....: ..^ .s .v:\veenthe hills, 
Fn^m 4 to o beans of the pole varieties are 
pl,u\tev! in a hill, and the hills are usually 4x4 
feet apart. 

It does not pay to plant ' •■.: .v,;:\s ;::-;;l the 
soil is thoRHighly w^rm for they in\^riably rot 
if it is ck>UL It is usi: 1 v s aV to plant lima 
beans when the oak lea\ es .ue as larije as squir- 
rels' ears, Pole beans are ijcnerally supported 
by poles c> to S feet hi^jh which are placed in the 
hills when the beans are planted. Wire trel- 
lises of N^iflous kinds are sometimes used to sup^ 
port pole beans. Fhey are neater than poles 
and secure a :nore uniform distribution of the 
plaints. When trellises are used, the beans are 
plantevi a few inches apart in drills. 

Whatever the class of beans, they sh. 
dean tillage durinjj the entire period of growth. 
No work, however, should be done among the 
beans when the plants are moist or wet with dew 
or rain, because this may spread or disseminate 
the disease known as anthracnose^ or more com- 
monly as pod spot. If pure seed is planted in 
non-infected soil, the disease is not likely to oc- 
cur. Spraying has not been found to be of any 
value in checking its ravages. 



///;/;r 117 

(Beta milgaris) 
i lu' hrcl Is imlvrrs;illy |:;i()WJi in Anicrkim 
and r:iir()|)c';iii j^ardciis. Hy |)r()j)cr maua^rc- 
incnt i(: may he had frcsli from July milil No- 
vcnihcr, and (lien (lie roofs ;nay he slorcd for 
consinnplion unlil lalc in ihc spring. The 
fleshy ^rccn leaves are dehcioiis vvfien cooked 
'd\K\ served as greens. 

The heel ihrives In any soil tlial Is riefi and 
TTioist. 'J he sandy soils, esj)eeially sandy loams, 
produce (he smoothest and finest roots, though 
heels of excellent (jiiallty are often ^rown In 
heavy soil. The oval and turnip-shaped varie- 
ties are |)referal)le to lon^ sorts for ^rowin^ in 
silt or clay soils. 

'l^iere are many desirahle varieties of heets. 
Croshy I'ljiryptian Is an early and important 
turnlp-shaj)ed variety. lulipse is an extra 
early, round, smootfi variety with small tops. 
It Is'pri/eci for ihe home j:<jarden. llarly Model 
has many friends amon^r those wfio want early, 
round roots of hl^h (juality. 

The seed of the heet Is really a fruit contain- 
In^^ several seeds surrounded hy a corky peri- 
earp. Since each so-called seed may produce 
several plants, ^rcat care must he exercised to 
prevent sowing the seed too thickly. 



118 Tin: vKLrKTAin.i: aAUDKS 

The soil should bo prepared in the most thor* 
ough luautKT. It should be tine, mellow, and 
free from rubbish. The first sowit\g may be 
made early in the spring as soon as the ground 
can be prepared. From 6 to v> weeks are re- 
quired for the early varieties to attain edible 
size* Successive sow ings should be made until 
the middle of August. Fwelve inches of space 
between rows is ample for the early varieties, 
while a little more space is an advantage for 
later varieties with larger tops. The seeds ot 
the early varieties should be dropped 2 or 3 
inches apart in the row, while twiee this space 
should be allowed for late N-^arieties. Some 
growers prefer to sow more thickly and then thin 
the plants as may be desired. 

riie seed should be covered with about ,\n 
uk\\ oi soil. Inet seeds germinate rather 
slowly, especially it the soil is lacking in mois- 
ture, Gerniination is usually hastened if the 
furrows, after sowii\^, are well tinned by the use 
of the hoe or feet, or perhaps the wheel of the 
seed drill. 

Beets do not bear transplanting as readily as 
some other vegetables, although it is often done. 
The best time is during cool, cloudy weather, 
when there is an abundance of moisture in the 
soiL Sometuues the seed is sown under glass 



niiHH'coiJ Hi) 

AwA the plants tr.iiisfcnod to tlic o\^c\\ grtMinJ, II 
\ cMv hiroo beets are dcsii'cd. A lertili/cr 
;nialy/in<;- rather \u\x\\ ii\ eaeh o( the three ele- 
ments usually applied will he I'ouiul satisfactory 
for beets. The early beets are j^euerally 
buuehevl for inarketiii*;, while the late erop is 
sold by measure. Tiie roots are easily pre- 
served in pits t)r in moist soil in a cool celUir. 

BUOCCCMJ 

{Hrdssitti olnditui, <iuir. /•otrytis) 

Hroeeoli is not oenerallv j^rown in Ameriea. 
The heads, resembliiii;- eaulillower, aie interior 
in quality to this vegetable and are more dilli- 
eult to grow. Its eulture should be attempted 
only as a late erop. Sow seed in the ope!i 
orcnmd in May and transplant (> weeks later, 
setting the plants about i 8 x ;>() inehes apart. 
Hroeeoli reijuires deep, rich, moist soil. 

BRUSSia.S SPROUrS 

This is a nu>st delieious member ol the eab- 
bao-e family. l.ar^^e buds ov miniature heads 
are bortie in the axils oi the leaves alon^ the tall 
stem. The '' spnnits " are from i to 2 inehes 
in diameter and are prepared in the same man- 
ner for the table as eaulillower. Brussels 



l.\) THE VEGETABLE CANDEX 

sprouts should be much more generally grown 
In Ameriean gardens. Its culture is more dltH- 
cult, as a rule, than eaulitlower, but it is well 
worth the effort, in the home garden at least. 

Sometimes seed is sown under glass and a very 
early product is grown. The more common 
practice, howe\ er, is to produce it as a late crop. 
In which case the seed should be sown In May. 
Six or seven weeks later the plants should be set 
iSxjo inches apart in rich, moist soil. To- 
ward the end of summer, the leaves along the 
stalk are all removed except a tuft at the top. 
The leaf pruning which the plants thus receive 
induces the most rapid de>'clopment ot the 
'' sprouts." The plants are not quite so hardy 
as the cabbage. 

CABBAGE 

Cabbage is one of the oldest of our cultivated 
vegetables. It was probably in use 2000 to 
2500 years i>. c. luiropean countries have al- 
ways regarded it as one oi their most important 
vegetables, and it is certainly one of the five 
most Important vegetables of the I'nited States. 
Large areas are grown in many southern sec- 
tions to meet the spring and early summer de- 
mand, and northern sections produce Immense 



CABB/iGE ^9.^ 

quantities of late cabbage which are distributed 
throughout the country. I'his crop offers 
special opportunities to those who have local 
markets that are poorly supplied. 

There is no necessity of growing a large num- 
ber of varieties. Jersey Wakefield, which pro- 
duces hard, pointed heads, is the best known and 
most largely planted of the pointed type. 
Charleston Wakefield is a third larger and ma- 
tures from three days to a week later. Copen- 
hagen Market, a comparatively new variety, 
produces hard, round heads and is practically as 
early as Jersey Wakefield. This variety is well 
bred and is becoming widely popular. 

Succession Is an unusually good, flat-headed, 
midsummer variety that also does well as a late 
crop. The seed should be sown somewhat later 
than the large-headed varieties such as Drum- 
head, Flat Dutch, and Surehead. Danish Ball 
head is the leading winter variety. It produces 
unusually hard, solid heads that keep under 
favorable conditions until late In the spring. 
Red Drumhead and Mammoth Rock Red are 
the leading red varieties, used extensively for 
pickling. Volga Is an Interesting, round- 
headed cabbage, somewhat resembling Dan- 
ish Ballhead. It succeeds much better on 
limestone soils than Danish Ballhead. 



m THE rECrFTABLE GAEDEX 

Most ot the cabbage seed grown in this coun- 
try Is produced on Long Ishuid. Some seed, 
especially that ot Danish Railhead and Copen- 
hagen Market, Is Imported from Dennuirk. 
Seed, especially oi late varieties, may be pro- 
duced at home without much ditHculty. Choice 
heads oi the type desired should be selected, 
buried with the roots on, and gnen thorough 
protection during the winter. The following 
spring the plants are reset, tops of heads cut 
crisscross, and stems well ridged with soil to 
keep the plants erect. When the seed pods have 
turned vellow, the plants should be cut and dried 
In the field for a few days and then stored under 
coNcr until dry enough to thresh. IVom lo to 
25 plants should make a pound ot seed. 

Cabbage is growii successfully on a great va- 
riety oi soil types. Fhe sandy i^oils are favor- 
able to earliness, while the heavy soils are con- 
ducl\e to high vields. 1 Imestone soils which 
are \alucd so highly for the general farm crops 
do not produce the heaviest crops of cabbage. 
The more open and porous soils seem to be more 
t^u-orable to cabbage. An abundant and con- 
stant supply of soil moisture throughout the 
period of growth Is absolutelv essential and 
there should be no deficiency in available plant 
food. Clover sod is always an advantage, espe- 



CABBAGE 123 

dally If it can be manured before the land is 

plowed. 

Early plants are started under glass or in a 
warm window. 1 he best plan Is to sow In rows 
2 Inches apart, dropping about a dozen seeds to 
each inch of furrow. The furrows should be 
deep enough to cover the seed with about one- 
fourth inch of soil. Soil should be selected 
which is known to be free from the disease that 
causes club-root. If a greenhouse is avadable, 
the first sowing In the North should be made not 
later than T^ebruary i. When starting the 
plants In hotbeds, it is preferable to sow lo days 
later. Keep the soil moist, but extreme care 
should be exercised to avoid over-watering, for 
this Is certain to cause weak, spindling plants 
which will be tedious to transplant. They wdl 
also be more subject to damping off fungus than 
short, stocky plants. 

The seedlings will be ready to transplant mto 
the cold-frame In less than four weeks from seed 
sowing. It Is customary to plant one and one- 
half inches apart each way, though more liberal 
spacing will produce stronger plants. An ex- 
cellent plan Is to use flats or plant boxes two or 
three Inches deep. An Inch of rotten manure 
should be placed In the bottom of each box be- 
fore the seedlings are transplanted. The seed- 



vn /7//-; J'iknrr.iin.i: c;.iHni:\ 

lings arc watered and eaiwi t'vM* in ihc co\d-{v.\u\c 
as explained in a pre\ ious chapter. They 
should bo well hardened before setting in the 
ticki* Seed tor the late crop is ahvavs sown in 
the open ground. I'arly preparation ot tlie 
sccd-bcd Is an avKantai^e. because it ev^nserves 
soil n\oisture and thus insures more prompt 
gennination. la order to avoid club-root the 
plants should be started in soil that has not pro- 
duced cabbage for a long term (>( vears. The 
rows should be about a toot apart. a:id ^ to S 
seeds to each inch ot furrow should •. es ...; n a 
gOv>d stand of plants. I !u^ viepth of covering 
the seed will depend mainly on the character of 
the soil. Ordinarily, half an Inch of soil over 
the seed is sutHcient. If the plants are too much 
crv^'wded, thev shouUi be thinned as sooii as pos- 
sible. 

Experiments at The Te-' 's\ K anla State Col- 
lege show that it is practic. . : sow seed where 
the crop is to n\ature and thus avoid trai\splant- 
in^. Yields have been fully as high. Fhe plan 
simply proN'ides for dropping several seeds at 
eaeh spot w here a head is desired and after the 
plants are well started, thinning to one strong 
plant, rhis method appeals to those who do 
not have any particular use for the soil before 
the usual time for transplanting cabbage, and 



CAniiACii: 1^5 

who find (liflicully In providing \;\h()V \() do the 
Ir.'insphiiilin^. Of course, ih( rxj)cns(: of tilhij^c 
in shiilinp; lh(- phirils is inc j ciiscd, ;ind it fniiy he 
rnoic ( xjx n,iv(t lo cornhjif Insert enemies wfien 
tlie httic phmts ;ire scattered over w. wliole field 
Inslcnd of ( on( cntrMted in :i sni;dl s(:ed-l)ed. 

I>;ite (■a\)\);\\i^v oftefi fiiils herjiuse tfie I:i,nd is 
ph)we(I too hite in the spri/i^. If tfie seed is 
sown May lo, which is ahout; tdie rl^fit (hite for 
many varieties, tfie seedhn^s will he ready to 
tr:irisplant the Intter part of jnne. Now, if sod 
hiiid is not ph)we(I until a few days hefore this 
time, tfie ground will i)e idmost eerl;iifi to he 
wantln)j[ in soil moisture, and if rain does not fall 
very soon, successful transplanting will he a very 
uncertain matter. 1 fie only safe course to pur- 
sue Is to plow tlie land early in tfie s{)rin;^ ;i,nd to 
|)rcvcnt tfie rapid eva[)oration of soil moisture 
hy harrowlnj:^ as often as may he necessary to 
maintain a dust mulch. 

I \'\\rh fertility Is ahsolutcly essential to ohtain 
lar^e crops of cahha^e. A soil tfiat is deficient 
in nitrogen, potasfi, phosphoric acid, and soil 
moisture, or any of these constituents, cannot 
possII)ly produce a ^ood crop of cahha^e. A 
fjeavy clover sod will contrihute lar^^ely to the 
success of the crop. Liheral applications of 
manure with or without sods are also exceed- 



1^6 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Ingly valuable. Any kind of manure may be 
used to advantage. If a heavy sod of clover or 
timothy Is available to be plowed down, lo 
tons of manure should provide an abundance of 
vegetable fiber in the soil. In addition to this 
treatment, growers following intensive methods 
employ from 1500 to 2000 pounds of a high- 
grade fertilizer. It should contain at least 4 
per cent, of nitrogen and from 6 to 8 per cent, 
of each of the mineral elements. 

The late crop is not generally fertilized so 
lavishly, because the money returns seldom 
justify such heavy fertilization. On the other 
hand, wherever very good local markets are 
available it may be a profitable business proposi- 
tion to fertilize the late crop just as heavily as 
the early crop. Sometimes nitrate of soda can 
be used at a great profit. Suppose there has 
been protracted drought after the plants are in 
the garden, that they make very slow growth or 
refuse to head properly, and rain is expected 
soon. At such a time nitrate of soda, sown 
broadcast at the rate of about 100 pounds to 
the acre, will be almost certain to have a most 
desirable influence. When applied broadcast, 
there need be no fear of the nitrate burning or 
injuring the plants. 

The proper distance for planting in the 



CABBAGE m 

garden depends mainly on two factors, namely, 
the fertility of the soil and the varieties to be 
planted. Under average conditions, the very 
early varieties should have 26 to 30 inches be- 
tween rows and the late ones 30 to 34 Inches. 
Jersey Wakefield should have about 14 inches 
between plants in the row; Charleston Wake- 
field and Copenhagen Market, 16; Succession 
and Danish Ballhead, 18 to 20; and very large 
late varieties, 24. 

Cool, cloudy weather is most favorable to 
transplanting in the garden, especially if the 
plants have been pulled from the seed-bed. If 
they have been started in flats, as explained in a 
previous chapter, and each plant removed with 
a block of soil and manure attached to the 
roots, the plants will live and grow under the 
most unfavorable weather conditions. When a 
very early market is sought, it well pays to be as 
careful as possible in making the transfer with- 
out serious mutilation of the roots. If the soil 
is lacking in moisture, the sun shining brightly, 
and perhaps the wind blowing, transplanting 
for the late crop will be more certain if some 
water is used with each plant. Whatever the 
method used, the soil should always be brought 
firmly into contact with the roots. 

Enough has been said about the importance 



1^>S THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

of soil moisture to this crop to render unneces- 
sary the discussion of tillage. Of course, there 
should be absolutely clean tillage and the hand- 
hoe should be used sufficiently to control all 
weed growth. 

Those who have a surplus of cabbage to sell 
will usually hnd it desirable to conform to 
methods oi marketing that are used in the 
vicinity. A common practice is to sell early 
cabbage by weight on local markets, or some- 
times by count, and also by measure. When 
sold by weight, it is generally important to al- 
low the heads to reach full maturity. The late 
crop Is nearly always sold by weight. It is not 
uncommon for the first few cuttings of early 
cabbage to sell for 3 cents a pound, while one 
and one-half cents Is a good average for the 
season. One cent a pound Is a profitable price 
for late cabbage. The outside leaves should be 
removed and the heads made to appear neat, 
whatever plan Is used in marketing. 

In the great cabbage-growing sections, 
specially constructed houses are used for the 
storage of this crop. Inextensive growers usu- 
ally resort to burying, and a great variety of 
plans may be employed. One of the best and 
simplest Is to place the cabbage in long wind- 
rows on top of the ground where there is good 



CABBAGE 129 

drainage. Three heads are placed side by 
side, with the outer leaves under them. If de- 
sired, an additional layer of cabbage is placed 
on top of these. The plow is then used to turn 
two furrows against each side of the windrow 
and the work of burying is finished with 
shovels. 

In most northern localities it is unnecessary 
to use more than 5 or 6 inches of soil over the 
cabbage, provided 3 or 4 inches of horse 
manure is spread over the soil after the ground 
begins to freeze. In extremely cold locations, 
more manure may be needed to give thorough 
protection. A very convenient plan by which 
to bury small quantities of cabbage is to fill 
ordinary barrels with the heads, cover top of 
barrels with boards, lay barrels on their sides 
and cover with soil and manure. Straw, hay, or 
old mats may be placed against the boards so 
that the cabbage can be removed without much 
inconvenience at any time during the winter. 
This plan is especially desirable for home gar- 
deners who do not care to keep more than 50 
to 100 heads. 

The cabbage has a number of enemies which 
must be kept under control. The cabbage mag- 
got, which attacks the roots, is one of the most 
serious. If the crop is not planted on the same 



1^) THE JEGETABLE GJUDEX 

grvnmd at closer Jnttrvals than five ytarts, the 
maggot wiU not W Hkdv to appte^ar. In $n>aU 
patche^ji, Jnii^ctJons of kerv>$ene en\ulsuon or car* 
K>Hc acid cn>uku>i\ aKnit the rv>ot:»i> a$i $oon as 
the fltesi are notkxd> will pi\>Ye K^vutc cScctive as 
9i preventive measure^ DJsks of caniboarvl 
placevl aro^wd the plants unmevlJately after 
transplantuxg are also vahiaWe* The cabbage 
aphis may be contnxUevi by sprayiixg the plants 
thoro-x^hh' on the upper and lower surfaces of 
the leaves w ith tv^baccv^ preparation or kerosene 
en\ulsiofi. Fhe c\^mn>v>u green worm may be 
controlled by poisonous sprays or by fresh insect 
powder. Long tern\ notations are absolutely 
necessary to prevent cluKroots The liberal 
use of lime is also an excellent preventive. 

CARROT 

The carrv^t is not as popxJar as it should be 
in America. It is unquestionabk one of our 
most wholesv>?^ie veget^bles^ and> when properly 
prepare^! for the table, it is highlv palata- 
We. 

The smoothest and most ^>ertcc:l\ ^thaped 
roots are §^wn in sandy soil. If the home 
garvlen is not naturally sandy, a load or two of 
co8ir^> shaip sand* mixed w^ith a sjwall area of 



CyiRHOT 131 

the soil, will rriakc il possiMc, lo j^row better 
( arrots as well as other vej^etables rcrjuirln^ 
sand for the best results. Any soil, however, 
conlainlnf^ a. h'beral amount of or^anie matter^ 
will f^row ^(iod earrots, es[)ecially tfie short- 
r(joted varieties. Of this class, Early Short 
Scarlet and J^arly Scarlet Horn are very popu- 
lar. Chantenay or Mrniel, iJanvers 1 lalf- 
Lon^, Oxheart, and Rul)icon are j^orjd niid- 
season varieties. Lonj^* Oran}:^e is tfie leadinj:^ 
late, long-rooted variety. 

Seed for the early crop should be sown as 
early in tf)e spring as the grouncJ can be pre- 
pared. A succession of short roots may be had 
throughout the season l)y making sowings of 
the early varieties at intervals of two or three 
weeks, or, if preferred, the larger and later 
maturing varieties may be used. l*"or wheel- 
hoe cultivation, it is customary to allow from 
12 to 14 inches of space between the rows. 
Plants of the early varieties should stand about 
2 inches apart In the row, while late varieties 
should be spaced from 4 to 6 inches apart. A 
4-6-8 fertilizer ^ will meet the needs of the 
carrot. 

1 In speaking of comnnercial fertilizers the first figure 
designates tlie percentage of iiiirogen, the second the per- 
centage of phosphoric acid, and the last (he percentage of 
potash which it contains. 



132 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

CAULIFLOWER 

{Brassica oleracea, <var. botrytis) 

The cauliflower is properly regarded as the 
most refined and delicate member of the cab- 
bage family. No home garden is complete 
without it, and practically all market growers, 
who are sufficiently skilful to grow cauliflower 
successfully, find it a profitable crop. It is not 
an easy crop to produce on a commercial scale, 
and many market growers do not attempt its 
culture. 

Cauliflower thrives best in a cool, moist 
climate. For this reason, it is grown most suc- 
cessfully in the North near large bodies of 
water. Although cool weather is favorable to 
the plants, they are less hardy than cabbage. 

A deep, moist, rich soil provides ideal condi- 
tions. It is especially important that there be 
plenty of moisture at the time of heading. 

Buy the best seed, because poor seed is held 
responsible for a large percentage of the fail- 
ures of this crop. Seed for the early crop 
should be sown under glass about the first of 
March. Transplant the seedlings when they 
are not more than an inch high. Use plenty of 
rotten manure in the flats and see that the sup- 
ply of moisture is ample and constant. Take 
all possible care to avoid checking growth. 



CELERY 133 

Plant in the garden after danger of killing 
frosts. Late plants are handled in the same 
way as late cabbage, but with more care. A 
high-grade, complete fertilizer may be used to 
supplement a liberal application of rotten 
manure. 

As soon as the heads begin to form, a few 
leaves are bent over them and fastened in any 
convenient way. Sometimes the leaves are tied 
together with twine, and sometimes toothpicks 
are employed to hold them in place. With the 
protection thus afforded from rain, dew, and 
sunlight, the heads will be pure white in color. 
If there is a surplus of heads to market, they 
should be packed carefully in crates or other 
suitable carriers so that the heads will not bruise 
each other. A fancy product should be 
wrapped in white, oiled paper. 

CELERIAC OR TURNIP-ROOTED 
CELERY 

(Apium graveolens, 'var. rapaceum) 

This vegetable is prized in European coun- 
tries, but it is not generally grown in the United 
States. It is valuable for flavoring, as a salad, 
and for cooking. The roots vary from 2 to 4 
inches in size. Seed may be sown under glass 
and the plants set in the open ground after 



isi 7' / / 1: / • / ; c ; / ; 7^ . i />' i^ ga hdf \ 

duiger of hanl frv^$t^. So\vu\g$ iu..\ .: s. .;. 
mftde in the open ground* Cderiac requires 
the same general cultural treatment as celery* 

This vegetable, which h.is becorr.i^ so pOfnilir 
inrevx^nt years, ^ouU tind a pl.ue ;:\ e\ ery home 
garden* It also aiiorvis splendid possibilities 
for intensive cult\ire in a commercial way, 
wherever market conditions will iustifv the ven- 
ture* 

Celery lowers are well .iv\;c. tinted with the 
t\\\^ general classes of this vegetable* namely> 
the so<allevl self-blanching type and the green 
varieties. The self-blanching varieties are uni- 
versally regarded as inferior in quality to the 
prcf»erk grv>wn and thorvxighly blanched i^rttn 
sorts* On the other hand* they are mor« ea^Iy 
and more proStably gprown in many sections, and 
are most attracti>^ when placed on the market* 
Winter Queen is one of the best green varieties* 
It should ha\^ a place in most home gardens* 
Giant Pascal is superb in quality, but because of 
rtie great height of the plants it is more trooUle- 
some to blanch* Probably nine^enths of aU 
the celery in the United States is Golden Self* 
Blanching* It is universally popular among 



CKLiatV 1S5 

cornrncrtial ^^-(jwcrs, especially tfiosc operating 
on muck soils. White Plume is ]arj:^er than 
(iolden Self-lilanchin^ hut sf^mewhat inferior in 
(juality. Mmperor Tordhook is a promising 
new variety. 

Celery, like cauliflower, thrives host In a cool, 
moist clirriate. With [)roper management, how- 
ever, it may he grown successfully in all parts 
of the United States, especially if seasonal 
changes arc taken into consideration. 

As previously indicated, the muck soils of the 
lake regions arc used to a very great extent in 
the culture of celery, 'ihe hulk of the celery 
consumed hy our great cities is grown in muck 
soils. Wc want every reader to realize, how- 
ever, that it is possible to grow very fine celery 
in practically every garden. Any soil that is 
macJc very fertile and kept constantly moist 
should produce a good crop of celery. 

The success of this crop depends largely on 
the quality of seed used. The utmost care 
should he exercised in buying the best seed, 
though it may seem rather expensive. Prac- 
tically all of the seed of self-blanching varieties 
is grown in France, 'i'he United States has not 
been able to produce high-grade seed of the self- 
blanching varieties. 

Seed for the early crop should be sown under 



1^6 THE VEGETABLE GAFDEN 

glass about the rirst of March. Celery seed Is 
very small and should be barely covered and 
kept constantly moist to Insure germination. 
An excellent plan Is to keep a moist cloth or bur- 
lap over the bed until the seeds begin to sprout. 
As soon as the rough leaves appear, transplant 
Into flats, spacing the seedlings one and one-half 
to two Inches apart each way. 

Celery requires a comparatively high tem- 
perature until the plants are set In the garden. 
They refuse to make rapid growth In the low 
temj^erature of the cold-frame. Low tempera- 
ture may also stunt the plants and cause them to 
produce seed shoots Instead of an edible prod- 
uct. It Is better to keep the plants In the hot- 
bed or greenhouse, where plenty of heat can be 
furnished. Dally ventilation is also Important. 
Plants for the late crop are easily grown by sow- 
ing seed In the open groimd where the beds can 
be kept constantly moist. A little shading In 
any convenient way Is a great advantage in start- 
ing late plants. 

Ordinarily, the seed Is sown thinly In rows 
a foot apart and the plants, when about 5 or 6 
inches high, are transferred to the flat where 
the crop Is to be grown. ^Yhen the apple trees 
are In bloom Is the proper time In most northern 
sections to sow seed for the late crop. The 



CELERY 137 

plants may be set in the garden any time the lat- 
ter part of June or during July. If the seed- 
lings are rather tall and spindling, it is an ad- 
vantage to clip them back from one to three 
inches before they are finally transplanted. 

In the preparation of the soil the most Impor- 
tant factor Is to use an abundance of rotten 
horse manure. Intensive growers often use 30 
to 50 tons of manure to the acre. If the 
ground has been manured freely for a number 
of years, it will be unnecessary to apply so much 
manure before planting celery. In fact, it is 
not unusual to grow very fine celery on land of 
high fertility that has not been manured at all 
immediately before setting out the plants. 
Celery is a shallow-rooted plant, and for this 
reason some growers prefer to use at least a 
part of the rotten manure as a top dressing after 
plowing, in which case a disk harrow should be 
employed until the manure Is thoroughly mixed 
with the soil. 

Commercial fertilizer Is often highly benefi- 
cial In growing celery. If stable manure has 
been abundantly supplied, little or no benefit 
may be derived from the use of commercial fer- 
tilizer. Most celery growers, however, use 
more or less fertilizer. It should contain at 
least 4 per cent, of nitrogen and from 6 to 8 per 



138 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

cent, of each of the mineral elements. The 
amounts to the acre vary from looo pounds to 
2 tons. Ordinarily, a ton to the acre is 
ample, especially if a considerable quantity of 
manure has been applied. 

Plants for the early crop should not be set in 
^he garden until there is practically no danger 
of hard, killing frosts. In most sections the 
plants should not be set out before the loth of 
May. The ground should be in a fine state of 
cultivation and it should be smooth and moist. 
The self-blanching varieties are usually set 3 to 
4 inches apart in the row; while a third more 
space is allowed for green varieties. The dis- 
tance between rows will depend on the methods 
employed in cultivating and blanching. If the 
soil is to be mulched or cultivated with a hand 
wheel hoe and the plants blanched by means of 
boards, 2 feet between rows will be ample and 
some of our most intensive growers do not 
allow more than 18 to 20 inches. In the '* new 
celery culture,'' where blanching is accomplished 
by crowding, the plants are only 6 to 10 inches 
apart. If soil is to be used in blanching, then 
there should be at least 4 feet between rows, 
and 5 feet is not too much space for tall varie- 
ties like Giant Pascal. When transplanting 
into the garden takes place, the soil should be 



CELERY 139 

pressed firmly about the roots. Cultivation 
should be given immediately after planting, and 
repeated often enough to maintain a fine, dust 
mulch. 

The mulching system of culture is gaining 
rapidly in popularity because it is more certain 
of success than any other method. It provides 
for the placing, as soon as convenient after 
planting, of 3 or 4 inches of fresh horse 
manure, aerated in thin layers for a few days, 
between the rows of celery which need not be 
more than 2 feet apart. The manure should 
not come into direct contact with the plants, 
as it may burn them. About 40 tons of manure 
to the acre is required to be most effective. The 
benefits are: (i) Moisture is conserved more 
perfectly than by the most thorough tillage; 
(2) Tillage is rendered unnecessary; (3) 
Weeds cannot grow to any great extent; (4) 
Food is furnished the celery plants after every 
rain or the application of water. 

Twelve-inch hemlock boards are the best for 
blanching the early crop. A board is placed on 
each side of the row and held in place by double 
wire hooks or stakes. Blanching in warm 
weather will require from 10 to 20 days. The 
same boards can be used a number of times dur- 
ing the season. When earth is used in blanch- 



140 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Ing, ridging begins as soon as the nights become 
cooler in September. If the most erect plants 
are desired, it pays to press some loose soil 
about the base of each stem before a consider- 
able quantity of soil is thrown against the plants. 

If blights or celery diseases have been 
troublesome on previous crops, it will pay to 
spray w^Ith Bordeaux mixture, making the first 
applications in the seed-bed and repeating often 
enough to keep the plants well covered with the 
spray residue. 

One of the best means of storing celery Is 
to employ trenches, lo to 12 inches wide and 
not quite as deep as the average height of the 
plants. The crop should be stored about No- 
vember I, or before there is severe freezing 
weather. See that the plants are free from 
dew or rain. Do not expose them unnecessar- 
ily to sunshine and drying w^inds. Stand them 
as close together as possible in the trenches. 

Nail 10 or 12-Inch boards together in the 
form of a trough and use this to protect the 
celery from the sun, rain, and freezing wxather. 
Ventilation may be given by placing stones or 
blocks of wood under the edges of the boards. 
These should be removed when there are In- 
dications of cold w^eather. Additional pro- 
tection should be given as necessary by cover- 



CHARD Ul 

ing the boards with straw, mats, or strawy 
manure. Celery may also be stored successfully 
in pits and cool cellars. 

CHARD 

{Beta 'vulgaris) 

This vegetable is frequently called Swiss 
chard. The leaf blades are excellent when pre- 
pared as greens, while the stalks are very pal- 
atable when cooked and served like asparagus. 
The plants may be started under glass in the 
same manner as beets, though the more com- 
mon plan is to sow in the open ground where 
the plants are to mature. Lucullus is a good 
variety. Rows should be not less than 1 8 inches 
apart. When the plants are 5 to 6 inches high, 
thin to stand about 3 inches apart, using the 
thinnings for greens. Later the plants should 
be thinned to stand 8 to 10 inches apart. 

CHINESE CABBAGE 

This vegetable has been but little grown in 
American gardens. It is valued both for sal- 
ads and for cooking. Seed may be sown under 
glass and the plants set in the open ground in 
May, or, as is more common, sow the seed where 
the crop is to mature. Allow at least 2 feet 



U^ THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

between rows and 15 inches between plants in 
the rows. 

CHIVE 

{Allium schoenoprasum) 

This member of the onion family is of easy 
culture. The dense tuft of slender, hollow 
leaves is valued for flavoring. It may be prop- 
agated by dividing and planting the roots or by 
sowing seed early in the spring. The plants 
should be thinned to stand about 6 inches apart. 

CORN SALAD 

{Valerianella olitoria) 

This vegetable is grown to a limited extent 
in American gardens. The leaves are used for 
salad purposes, greens, seasoning, and garnish- 
ing. It does better as an early spring or late 
fall crop because the plants are sensitive to heat. 
The seed should be sown thinly in rows about 
a foot apart, and the plants thinned to about 
6 inches. It does best in cool, moist, fertile 
soils. 

CRESS 

There are three common forms of cress. 
Water cress is popular in all of our city mar- 
kets. It thrives in pure, shallow, running water 
and may be grown in moist, shady places. The 



CUCUMBER US 

plants are readily propagated from short pieces 
of the stems, planted along or near springs and 
brooks. Seed may also be scattered where con- 
ditions are favorable for germination. Gar- 
den or upland cress should be sown thickly in 
drills a foot apart. Upland cress is the least 
important of the cresses. It is most successful 
as a fall crop. 

CUCUMBER 

{Cucumis satwis) 

The cucumber is prized in all American gar- 
dens. It is used most largely for sHcing and 
pickling, though frying is fairly common. 

White Spine, of which there are many va- 
rieties, is the best known and most largely cul- 
tivated variety. Chicago Pickling, Boston 
Pickling, and Fordhook Pickling are especially 
valuable for pickles. 

Sandy soils produce the earliest crop and 
heavy soils the largest yields. It may be read- 
ily grown, however, in any soil which is moist 
and fertile. Seed is often saved from choice 
plants in the home plantation. If very early 
cucumbers are desired, the plants are easily 
started in the hotbed or greenhouse. Sowing 
should occur not more than 4 weeks before 
the proper time for planting in the garden. 



lU THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

An excellent plan Is to fill 3 or 4 inch earthen 
or paper pots with a rich compost. Plant 6 or 
8 seeds in each pot and thin to 2 to 4 plants. If 
possible, provide a night temperature of 60 de- 
grees and 10 degrees higher during the day. 
Apply water sparingly for a few days before 
the plants are set in the garden and give them 
as much fresh air as possible, so that they will 
be properly hardened for transplanting out-of- 
doors. 

The soil for cucumbers should be prepared 
as early as possible in the spring and the mois- 
ture conserved by harrowing the soil at fre- 
quent intervals. The plants thrive best in soils 
abounding in vegetable matter. This suggests 
the liberal application of stable manure. How- 
ever valuable a complete fertilizer may be, it 
cannot be used as a substitute for manure. 
The fact is, if an ample quantity of rotten 
manure is employed, commercial fertilizer may 
not be of much benefit, though it is generally 
employed. It should contain 3 to 5 per cent, 
of nitrogen and 6 to 8 per cent, of each of the 
mineral elements. 

Cucumbers are most commonly planted In 
hills. In moderately fertile, light, sandy soils 
the hills may be 4 x 5 feet apart, though ^x ^ 
or 5 X 6 Is generally preferred. Plenty of seed 



DANDELION 145 

is sown In each hill and the plants thinned to 
three or four. Some commercial growers pre- 
fer to sow in drills 5 or 6 feet apart and then 
thin the plants to stand about a foot apart. 
This plan gives each plant better opportunity 
for full development than when several are 
crowded together in the same hill. Whatever 
system Is employed, It is generally desirable to 
use rotten manure In the hills or furrows before 
any seeds are planted. There should be clean 
tillage throughout the season. 

The striped cucumber beetle Is the most de- 
structive Insect enemy. The larvae feed on the 
stems and if present In large number will soon 
weaken them, and the beetles quickly damage 
the leaves. The most certain means to protect 
the plants is to cover the hills with netting of 
some kind. Air-slaked lime sprinkled on the 
plants is often an effective repellant. 

DANDELION 

{Taraxacum officinale) 

Cultivated varieties are gaining in popular- 
ity for greens. They may also be blanched with 
soil for salad purposes. Rich soil should be 
prepared as early as possible In the spring and 
the seed sown in shallow drills a foot apart. 
Thin the plants to stand 6 inches apart In the 



146 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

row. The first cutting is always the finest, 
though several cuttings may follow. Very 
early spring cuttings may be made from plants 
that are retained during the winter. 

DILL 

{Anethum graveolens) 

This herb is quite popular for flavoring. 
The seed is especially valuable for flavoring 
pickles. Sow the seed half an inch deep in rows 
a foot apart and thin the plants so they will 
stand 6 to 8 inches apart. 

EGGPLANT 

{Solanum belongena) 

This vegetable is steadily gaining in commer- 
cial importance and it is seen more frequently 
than ever before in our home gardens. 

Black Beauty, New York Imperial, and 
Black Pekin are the leading dark-fruited va- 
rieties. Early Long Purple is considered 
earlier and hardier than any other variety and 
for these reasons it is most popular in northern 
sections where the large kinds do not thrive. 
The fruits are 9 to lo inches long. Ivory is an 
interesting white-fruited variety. 

The eggplant is very sensitive to cold and 
is produced at a great disadvantage where the 



ENDIVE 147 

nights are cool and the summers short. Un- 
favorable climatic conditions require the great- 
est care in starting the plants and preparing 
the soil. Seed should be sown in a warm hot- 
bed or greenhouse about the tenth of March 
and the seedlings shifted once or twice into pots 
before they are planted in the field. An effort 
should be made to have strong, vigorous plants, 
which in most sections of the North should not 
be set in the open ground before June i. 

The soil in the garden should abound in veg- 
etable matter. A shovelful or two of thor- 
oughly rotted manure, placed in each hill when 
the plants are set, will help to provide ideal 
conditions. The large, pointed varieties should 
be planted 4x4 feet apart, while 2 x 4 or even 
closer will be satisfactory for Early Long Pur- 
ple in northern sections. If growth in the gar- 
den is very slow, a teaspoonful of nitrate of 
soda scattered on the soil around each plant 
may prove beneficial, especially if the weather 
is abnormally cool. 

ENDIVE 

{Cichorium Endwa) 

Endive is extensively grown in Europe and 
is becoming more common in American gar- 
dens. It is an annual, hardy to frost, and val- 



148 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

uable for salad, for greens, for flavoring soups, 
and for garnishing. This vegetable is grown 
mainly as a fall crop. Giant Fringed, Green 
Curled Winter, and White Curled are the 
leading varieties. Seed for the fall crop should 
be sown in July or August; time of sowing de- 
pends on the locality. From 40 to 50 days are 
required for the crop to attain marketable size. 
The plants should be thinned to 10 or 12 
inches and there should be at least a foot of 
space between rows. If the plants are wanted 
for salad purposes the leaves should be well 
blanched, which may be accomplished by any 
plan which will exclude most of the light from 
the inside leaves. A common method is to tie 
the leaves together with twine. Late in the 
fall the plants may be covered with straw, or 
removed to a cold-frame or cool cellar. 
Boards may be used along the rows in the same 
way as explained for blanching celery. 

GARLIC 

{Allium sativum) 

This perennial plant is a member of the onion 
family and is used mainly for flavoring pur- 
poses, because it is stronger in flavor than the 
onion. The small bulbs or cloves, as they are 
called, should be planted early in the spring, 



HORSE-RADISH 149 

an inch or two deep, 4 to 6 Inches apart, with a 
foot of space between rows. The bulbs are 
harvested, cured, and stored In the same way 
as onions. 

HORSE-RADISH 

{Cochlearia armoracia) 

Horse-radish Is highly valued as a condiment 
and should have a place In every garden. It 
requires a deep, rich, moist soil. Sandy loams 
provide the best conditions. The plants are 
readily propagated from root cuttings. These 
are usually made from the small lateral roots 
which are removed from the large roots when 
the crop Is prepared for market. The cuttings 
are 4 to 6 Inches long. Inasmuch as these lat- 
eral roots are practically uniform In diameter 
throughout their length, it Is customary to cut 
them square at the bottom, and then there Is no 
uncertainty as to which end should be planted 
up In the garden. 

The roots are planted 15 to 18 inches apart 
In the row, and there should be at least 26 
Inches between rows. If the ground is to be 
cultivated with a horse; 20 Inches will be suffi- 
cient space for wheel-hoe cultivation. It Is de- 
sirable to have 3 to 5 Inches of soil over the 
roots, which are often planted obliquely. Some 



150 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

of the roots should he dug and stored in moist 
soil or sand for use durhig the winter and the 
remainder of the crop may be left in the ground 
until spring. 

KALE OR BORECOLE 

{Brassica oUracca acephala) 

Kale is an important crop in the Norfolk 
region and it is grown to some extent through- 
out the LTnited States. It is a member of the 
cabbage family and is used mainly for greens, 
though the dwarf varieties are also valued for 
garnishing and bedding. It thrives in any 
good, moist soil. In the North the seed should 
be sown in May and then the plants will be 
ready for the table In the fall. The smaller 
kinds should have S Inches of space between 
the rows and the larger varieties 15 inches. 
The greens are not as delicate as spinach. 

KOHL-RABI 

{Brassica oleracea catilorapa) 

Kohl-rabi is also a member of the cabbage 
family and no more difficult to grow than cab- 
bage. It is often called turnip-rooted cabbage. 
Green Vienna, Earliest Erfurt, White Vienna, 
and Purple Vienna are the best known varie- 
ties. The plants are readily started under 



ia:kk 161 

glass ill (he same way as early eahbaj^e, aiul then 
set ill (lie open f^rouiul (he la((er j)art of April 
or early in May. I'latUs of the smaller, earlier 
varieties do not need more than 8 Inches of 
space in the row, while a foot is not too much 
room for the late kinds. riiere should be 15 
inches ol s|iace between rows for hand-hoe till- 
age and nearly twice that amount for horse 
tillage. Seed for the late crop is sown in the 
garden where the |)lants are to mature. 

LEEK 

{Allium porriim) 

A sheaf of leaves instead of a bulb is pro- 
duced by this well-known member of the onion 
family. They are generally eaten raw, though 
sonietimes cooked and used for flavoring. 
Sow seed in open ground early in the spring. 
In June or July, cut the tops back quite severely 
and transplant 4 to 6 inches apart in rows a 
foot apart. Ridge the rows in the fall in order 
to obtain long, white tender sheaves. \\\t 
plants may be readily kept in storage in the 
same way as celery. 

LETTUCE 

{Ldituca saliva) 

Lettuce is unquestionably our most important 
salad crop. It is grown on a large scale for 



15^ THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

commercial purposes and our home gardeners 
are rarely without it. 

Scores of excellent varieties are catalogued by 
the seedsmen. There is no best variety of any 
particular class. Grand Rapids is highly 
valued as a curly-leaved variety and is grown 
extensively under glass as well as out-of-doors. 
May King, All Heart, Sensation, and Way-a- 
Head are excellent heading varieties. Big 
Boston is the leading variety for planting on 
muck soils. Paris Cos is an excellent variety of 
the cos type. 

Lettuce is one of our hardiest vegetables. 
When thoroughly hardened it will stand even 
lower temperature than cabbage. 

The loose leaf or non-heading varieties thrive 
in any good, rich, moist soil. Head lettuce 
will not be successful in any soil that is not well 
aerated. For this reason it is most success- 
fully grown in sandy soils. In the home gar- 
den, a load or two of sand, mixed with a small 
area of the soil, will greatly increase the 
chances of success in growing head lettuce. A 
liberal application of rotten manure is also ex- 
ceedingly beneficial to this crop. 

Seed may be sown in the open ground just: 
as early as the soil can be prepared. Rows 
should be about a foot apart and the plants 



MARTYNIA 153 

thinned to 8 to 12 inches. Seed may also be 
sown under glass the latter part of February 
or early in March, the plants being grown in 
the same manner as explained for cabbage. 
They may be transplanted to the open ground 
fully as early as cabbage. 

Commercial fertilizer can also be used to ad- 
vantage in lettuce plantations. It should con- 
tain about 4 per cent, of nitrogen and 6 to 8 per 
cent, of each of the mineral elements. It is usu- 
ally necessary to make sowings at intervals of 
several weeks in order to produce a succession 
of tender leaves or heads. 

MARTYNIA 

{Martynia proboscidea) 

This vegetable is used to some extent for 
pickling. It is best grown by starting the 
plants under glass and transplanting them in the 
open the latter part of May. It should have a 
warm, sunny location to obtain the best results. 
The plants should be set from 3 to 4 feet apart 
each way. 

MINT 

Three kinds of mints, namely, peppermint, 
spearmint, and Japanese mint, are grown in 
American gardens. All are of easy culture. 
They should be sown in shallow drills 12 to 18 



154 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

inches apart and the plants thinned to stand 3 to 
4 inches apart in the row. 

MUSKMELON 

[Cucumis Melo) 

The muskmelon has become one of our most 
important truck crops and the home garden is 
not complete without it. So many superb 
varieties are available that it is difficult to select 
a few of par excellence. The Rocky Ford type 
is the most important commercially, and Rocky 
Ford and Netted Gem are good varieties of 
this class. Among varieties which are highly 
prized, in addition to the ones named, may be 
mentioned Emerald Gem, Jersey Belle, Paul 
Rose, Osage, Eden Gem, Burrell Gem, and 
Hackensack. 

The muskmelon is not at home in the warmer 
parts of the United States, but it may be grown 
in small quantities in practically every section. 
The fruits are so delicious that every garden 
maker should try to grow a few hills, though 
he may not be successful every year. 

The sandy types of soils are considered best 
for muskmelons, largely because of their thor- 
ough drainage and their advantage in producing 
an early crop. While these are decided ad- 
vantages, this crop is grown with signal success 



MUSKMELON 155 

on a great variety of soil types. In fact, some 
of the most extensive commercial plantations 
are located on clay and silt loams. An abund- 
ance of organic matter in the soil is highly es- 
sential and there should be a uniform supply of 
soil moisture throughout the season. 

The greatest care should be exercised in se- 
curing well-bred seed. Where the summers are 
short and cool, it is often an advantage to save 
seed from home-grown specimens of vigorous, 
productive plants, thus obtaining in a few years 
a melon which will be more or less acclimatized 
to local conditions. 

In most sections, where muskmelons are 
grown on a large scale, the seed is planted in the 
open ground where the crop is matured. For 
home gardens, however, and for sections where 
the soil and climatic conditions are unfavorable 
to this crop, there are distinct advantages in 
starting the plants under glass. The melons 
will then ripen a week to ten days earlier, which 
saving in time is a great factor where the sum- 
mers are cool and of short duration. Insect 
pests are also more readily combated if the 
plants are of good size before they are set in 
the garden. 

The plants may be started by various 
methods, but one of the best and most practical 



156 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

plans IS to sow 6 to 8 seeds in each 4-Inch 
earthen or paper pot. This should be done 
about four weeks before the probable date when 
they will be set in the garden. The plants 
should be thinned to 2 or 3 in each pot. They 
should not be taken to the garden until after 
danger of hard frosts. In most sections, noth- 
ing will be gained by setting potted plants in 
the open ground before the latter part of May 
or first of June, though one must be governed 
entirely by local climatic conditions. 

Soil that has been well manured in previous 
years for garden crops should produce good 
melons. A shovelful or two of rotten manure 
placed in each hill will be highly beneficial. If 
the seed is planted directly in the open ground, 
the manure should be thoroughly mixed in the 
hills or drills. The hills should ordinarily be 
6^G feet apart. If drills are employed, there 
should be 6 feet between rows, and the plants 
should be thinned to stand about 15 inches apart 
in the row. High-grade fertilizer may be used 
to supplement the manure if desired, and it 
should be mixed with the soil in the most thor- 
ough manner. Clean tillage from planting un- 
til harvest is essential. The plants may be pro- 
tected from cucumber beetles in the same way 
as explained for cucumbers. 



MUSTARD 157 

Where climatic, seasonal, and soil conditions 
are very unfavorable to muskmelon culture, a 
limited number of melons may be grown with- 
out very much trouble in cold-frames, using hot- 
beds if necessary to start the plants. 

MUSTARD 

{Brassica) 

Mustard is used sometimes as a salad plant 
and also for greens, while the seeds are used in 
manufacturing the mustard of commerce. 
Seed may be sown any time from early spring 
until September, in rows a foot apart, and the 
plants thinned to 5 or 6 inches apart in the 
row. White London is one of the best vari- 
eties. 

OKRA OR GUMBO 

{Hibiscus esculentus) 

This vegetable is grown to some extent in the 
South and occasionally in the North. The 
tender pods are used in soups and stews and 
sometimes cooked or served as a salad. The 
plants should be started under glass at about the 
same time as tomatoes, and planted in 4-inch 
pots, preparatory to setting in the garden. 
They do best in warm, fertile soil and should be 
planted about 2x3 feet apart. 



158 THE VEGETABLE GAIiDEN 

ONION 

{J Ilium i't'p(i) 

The onion is uni^•crsally planted in home gar- 
dens, and it is one ot our most important garden 
erops from a commercial standpoint. \Vher- 
e\er market conditions are fa\oraMe the onion 
offers exceptionally good opportunities for the 
employment oi intensive methods with the hope 
oi satisfactory returns. 

The onion is planted more or less extensively 
In practically all American gardens. Danvers 
is prohably the most largely grown. Southport 
Yellow Globe is a superior variety In some re- 
spects and Is preferred by many commercial 
growers. WeathersHeld is a highly popular red 
variety. Southport Red Globe is a favorite 
red onion wherever it is known. Silver King Is 
one of the leading white onions. White Pearl 
Is early and very attractive, but the bulbs are 
smaller than Silver King. White Queen Is ex- 
tremely earlv and produces snrall, pure white 
bulbs that are valued for pickling. White and 
Yellow Multipliers are planted largely in the 
South. Egyptian is a perfectly hardv variety, 
recommended for fall planting in the \orth. 

Bulbs oi the foreign class of onions, such as 
the Bermuda, Spanish, and Italian, are milder 



ONION 159 

in flavor than American onions. They are also 
larger but do not keep so well. Some of the 
varieties are considered especially valuable for 
planting under glass, the seedlings being trans- 
planted to the open ground usually In May. 
Of this class, Prizetaker Is best known and most 
extensively cultivated. White Italian Tripoli 
produces large, white, flattened bulbs. Giant 
Gibraltar and Denia produce very large bulbs, 
requiring more time to mature than Prizetaker. 
Red Bermuda, White Bermuda, and Crystal 
Wax are the best known varieties of the Ber- 
muda class. 

The American varieties are best adapted to 
northern conditions, though the foreign types 
may be grown if special care Is exercised in start- 
ing the plants and In giving the crops the proper 
treatment. 

Land for onions should be as fertile as pos- 
sible. The rich, sandy loams provide Ideal con- 
ditions. Good onions, however, may be grown 
in any soil which receives the proper treatment. 
Heavy silt and clay soils are the most objection- 
able, though large additions of stable manure 
will make It possible to obtain fairly satisfactory 
crops. Fall plowing of such soils Is advan- 
tageous. It Is highly Important to use land that 



160 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

is practically free from weed seeds. This re- 
quires that clean tillage be given the ground the 
preceding year. 

A favorite plan is to apply an abundance of 
stable manure for a cultivated crop, such as 
sweet corn, and then use the ground the next 
year for onions. If manure is applied direct for 
the onions, it should be as free as possible of 
weed seeds, otherwise the cost of hand-hoeing 
and weeding will be excessive. Manure which 
has been composted for several months will con- 
tain very few weed seeds. 

If stable manure is used at the rate of 20 tons 
or more to the acre, and if the land has been 
liberally fertilized for several years previous to 
planting onions, it may not be necessary to use 
very much fertilizer. As a rule, however, a ton 
of fertilizer containing 4 per cent, of nitrogen 
and not less than 7 per cent, of each of the min- 
eral elements — potash and phosphoric acid — 
will give a larger yield and increased profits. 
We must bear in mind that the onion is a heavy 
feeder and good crops cannot be obtained in 
soils of moderate fertility. It is a crop calling 
for the most thorough and intensive methods, 
particularly with reference to plant food and the 
supply of organic matter in the soil. 

The bulk of the market crop grown in the 



ONION 161 

United States is produced from seed sown in 
the open ground just as early in the spring as the 
soil can be prepared. This system is also used 
to a considerable extent in home gardens. 
Ordinarily, the rows are a foot apart. Four 
and one-half pounds of good seed will plant an 
acre. There should be not less than 8 good 
plants in each foot of row ; if the soil is very rich 
and bulbs of extra large size are desired, there 
should be about 6 plants to the foot. In small 
plantations it is not a great task to thin the 
plants so that the stand can be regulated to suit 
the ideas of the grower. 

When especially large and fine bulbs are de- 
sired, an excellent plan is to start the plants 
under glass. Early sowing is conducive to the 
best bulbs. If space is available in the hot-bed 
or greenhouse it pays to sow the seed of Prize- 
taker and other varieties of the foreign type 
about February i, though a month later will do 
if earlier sowing Is not feasible. Use rich, 
sandy loam, or any good garden soil, for start- 
ing the plants. Make the drills half an inch 
deep and three Inches apart. Drop lo to 12 
seeds to the Inch of furrow. 

Any temperature which may be maintained 
for other vegetable plants will do for the onion. 
Be careful that the soil does not become exces- 



162 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

sively dry at any time, for this condition, fol- 
lowed by the free use of water, may induce 
damping off. When the plants are about 5 
inches tall, clip them back to 4 inches every week 
until they are set in the garden. This will make 
them stronger and stockier and they will be 
hardier when planted out-of-doors than if clip- 
ping is not practiced. 

In home gardens the most common plan is to 
grow or buy sets and plant them out-of-doors 
just as soon as the ground is dry enough to 
work. Plants grow very rapidly from sets and 
mature bulbs earlier than it is possible to grow 
them from seed sown direct into the soil. It 
is the most convenient form of onion culture for 
amateurs or inexperienced growers. The rows 
should be a foot apart, if wheel hoes are to be 
used, and the sets should be forced well into the 
ground at intervals of about 3 inches. Plants 
started under glass should be spaced at the same 
intervals in the rows. Some gardeners space 
the sets or plants only one and one-half inches 
apart in the row and then every other onion is 
pulled green for bunching, and the others are 
left in the ground until full grown. 

Hand wheel hoes should be employed as soon 
as possible after the crop is started. It is also 
necessary to do more or less weeding, for which 



ONION 163 

some of the hand tools will be found very valu- 
able. 

When most of the onion tops have become 
dead and shriveled, the bulbs should be pulled. 
Several rows are usually thrown together into 
windrows and allowed to remain on the ground 
for several days or perhaps a week if the 
weather is bright and sunny. If the bulbs are 
turned occasionally with a wooden rake, they 
will dry more rapidly. They are then stored 
under cover until fully cured. 

Onions are easily kept during the winter in 
any dry, well-ventilated room. The bulbs may 
be spread in bulk on the floor, or, if preferred, 
placed in bags or crates. Sometimes the bulbs 
are permitted to freeze early in the winter and 
then covered with sufficient hay or straw to pre- 
vent thawing until spring. 

Bunching onions are easily grown from seed 
by making very thick sowings. From 20 to 30 
pounds of seed to the acre should be used for 
the production of bunching onions, while 40 to 
60 pounds to the acre are used for the growing 
of sets. 

The onion thrip, rust, and blight should be 
avoided as much as possible by rotation. It is 
seldom desirable to use the same ground year 
after year for onions. 



16* THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

PARSLEY 

{Carum petroselinum) 

This vegetable is highly prized for salads, 
flavoring purposes, and for garnishing. Extra 
Curled Dwarf, Moss Curled, and Fern-Leaved 
are excellent varieties. Seeds may be sown 
under glass or In the open ground. Good soil Is 
required to grow fine plants. Sow In June for 
the fall crop. Set the plants 8x14 Inches apart 
to provide ample space for them. They may be 
dug up In the fall and potted or planted In boxes 
In a sunny window of the kitchen or living 
room. 

PARSNIP 

{Pastinaca satwa) 

This Is one of the Important root crops. It 
thrives In deep, fertile, moist, sandy soils. 
Roots of fair quality may be grown In heavy 
soils If the land Is deep and well enriched by the 
application of rotten manure. Early Short 
Round Is a valuable, very early variety. Guern- 
sey and Hollow Crown are the standard varie- 
ties for the late crop. A long season Is re- 
quired for parsnips; the seed should be sown as 
early as possible In the spring and covered with 
one-half to one Inch of soil. There should be 
at least 15 inches between rows, and the plants 
should be thinned to 6 or 7 inches In the row. 



PEA 165 

Some of the roots should be dried in the fall, 
for sale or consumption during the winter, and 
the balance of the crop left in the rows where 
it was grown until spring. The severest winter 
weather does not injure the roots. 

PEA 

{Pisum satwum) 

The pea is invariably planted in home gar- 
dens and it is one of our important garden and 
truck crops. An enormous quantity is canned 
every year. 

Of the early smooth peas, Alaska is one of the 
most prominent varieties. It is used exten- 
sively for canning. Extra Early is sold by all 
seedsmen and it is valued by those who want an 
extremely early product. Gradus, Thomas 
Laxton, and Nott's Excelsior are excellent early 
peas of the wrinkled type. The wrinkled peas 
are considered superior in quality to the smooth 
peas, but not quite so hardy. These varieties 
may be planted as early in the spring as the 
ground can be prepared. Improved Stratagem 
and Telegraph are excellent tall late vari- 
eties. 

Soils abounding in vegetable matter produce 
the heaviest crops of peas. For this reason rot- 
ten manure may be used to advantage, applied 



166 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

either broadcast or in the furrows. If the soil 
is rather thin, furrow applications before plant- 
ing will be more effective. Complete fertilizers 
have also been found valuable for peas. Rows 
of dwarf varieties need not be more than i8 
inches apart, while the late tall kinds should 
have 3 feet of space. Thirty inches between 
rows is a common distance for varieties of 
medium height. Seed should be sown thickly 
for heavy yields and covered with an inch or two 
of soil. Wire or brush supports should be used 
for the tall varieties. 

PEPPER 

{Capsicum annuum) 

The pepper is gaining rapidly in commercial 
importance and it is much more appreciated in 
home gardens than it was ten years ago. This 
is particularly true of the mango or sweet pep- 
per. Although the plants are susceptible to 
frost and do best at high temperatures, there is 
no reason why at least a few plants should 
not be grown in practically all American gar- 
dens. 

The warm sandy loams are preferred for this 
crop. Of the hot or pungent varieties. Tabasco, 
Long Red Cayenne, True Red Chili, Bird Eye, 
and Hot Bell are best known. Of the mild- 



RADISH 167 

fruited type, Bull Nose, Chinese Giant, and 
Ruby King are highly popular. Neapolitan is 
an early variety which possesses special merit 
for cool sections where peppers are not usually 
grown under the most favorable circum- 
stances. 

The plants should always be started in a 
warm hotbed or greenhouse. A high tempera- 
ture is required both for the germination of the 
seed and the growth of the young plants. One 
or two transplantings should be made before 
the plants are taken to the garden. Plenty of 
rotten manure should be used in the hill with 
each plant, unless the soil and climatic condi- 
tions are very favorable. Commercial ferti- 
lizer can also be used to advantage in soils of 
moderate fertility. The plants should not be 
set In the garden until the ground is thoroughly 
warm and there is no danger of frost. Most 
varieties should be planted about i8 x 30 Inches 
apart. Ridging the plants with soil will help 
them to stand erect and support their crop of 
fruit. 

RADISH 

{Raphanus sativus) 

The radish Is one of our most important root 
crops. It is grown largely as a spring and 



168 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

early summer crop and the forcing industry, 
both in frames and greenhouses, is of consider- 
able consequence. The earliest varieties attain 
an edible size in three weeks and this fact makes 
the radish a most popular vegetable among home 
gardeners. It is a cool weather crop, but may 
be grown under a wide range of climatic condi- 
tions. The soil should be highly fertile, and the 
sandy loams are best, though splendid roots may 
be grown in any soil which is well enriched with 
rotten manure. Commercial fertilizers are 
sometimes employed for radishes, but the main 
reliance is placed on stable manures, which 
should never be employed in a fresh state be- 
cause they cause an excessive growth of tops at 
the sacrifice of roots. 

Round Red Forcing and Scarlet Frame are 
excellent varieties of the small, red, button type. 
Earliest White is a superb early white variety. 
Beckert Chartier is a very good long-rooted red 
variety. French Breakfast is a bright scarlet 
radish with white tips. Radishes are planted 
from early spring until the first of September. 
The rows are generally about a foot apart and 
the plants range from i to 5 inches apart. The 
distance depends on the size of the roots. The 
seeds are covered with about one-half inch of 
soil. 



RHUBARB 169 

RHUBARB 

{Rheum Rhaponticum) 

The rhubarb is one of the easiest crops to 
grow. The largest stalks are produced in 
deep, rich loams, but a good product can be 
grown in any garden soil of average fertility. 
Any kind of stable manure may be employed to 
advantage in growing rhubarb. If the supply 
of manure is limited, the greatest benefit will be 
derived by mixing two or three shovelfuls of 
rotten manure in each hill when the roots are 
planted. This vegetable is readily propagated 
from seed, but the most common plan is to di- 
vide old roots into separate pieces to start new 
plantations. The roots are usually planted 
3x4 feet apart and covered with several inches 
of soil. 

Victoria and Linnaeus or Strawberry are the 
leading varieties. If liberal applications of 
manure are made to the plants every year there 
will be little or no need for using commercial 
fertilizer. Nitrate of soda is often of special 
value in encouraging a strong and rapid growth. 

RUTABAGA 

{Brassica campestris) 

This vegetable is sometimes called " Swedish 
Turnip." It is very similar in some respects to 



170 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

kohl-rabl and requires about the same cultural 
treatment. Sow seed as early as possible in the 
open ground or start the plants under glass. 
Seed for the late crop should be sown the latter 
part of June or early in July. The roots should 
stand about 8 inches apart in the row and 
there should be at least 15 inches between the 
rows. 

SALSIFY 

{Tragopogon porrifolius) 

Salsify Is also known as " oyster plant " and 
" vegetable oyster." It Is of easy culture. 
Sow seed in fertile soil as early as the ground 
can be prepared. Make rows a foot apart and 
thin the plants to stand 4 or 5 inches in the row. 
The roots may be left in the ground all winter, 
though some of them should be lifted for winter 
sales or consumption. 

SAVORY 

There are two kinds of savory, namely, sum- 
mer and winter. The former Is an annual and 
the latter Is a perennial. The leaves of both 
kinds are used for seasoning. They are readily 
grown from seed sown In the open or under 
glass. 



SHALLOT 171 

SHALLOT 

{Allium ascalonicum) 

The shallot is a member of the onion family, 
but is somewhat milder in flavor than the onion. 
It should have the same cultural treatment as the 
onion. 

SPINACH 

{Spinacea oleracea) 

This is undoubtedly our best " greens." Im- 
mense quantities are grown in the South and 
shipped to northern markets very early in the 
spring. Rich, moist soils are required to grow 
heavy crops. Stable manure, well decayed, is 
especially valuable in the growing of spinach. 
It is a common practice in the South to sow seed 
the latter part of September or later, in rows 
10 to 14 inches apart, and to thin the plants to 
stand 4 to 6 inches apart in the row. Spinach 
from this sowing is harvested very early the fol- 
lowing spring. 

In the North, the usual practice is to make 
sowings in the spring as early as the ground can 
be prepared. An excellent plan is to sow the 
seed on frozen ground in late winter and to 
cover at once with a half-inch mulch of fine, well- 
composted manure. The plants grow much bet- 
ter in cool weather than at high temperatiires. 



172 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Norfolk Savoy, Victoria, and Long Season are 
well-known varieties. 

SQUASH 

The squash, outside of a few sections of the 
country, is not as highly appreciated as it should 
be. The late types are particularly valuable in 
helping to provide a wider range of foods for 
the winter months. Early White Bush and 
Mammoth White Bush are excellent summer 
varieties of the " patty pan " type. Summer 
Crookneck and Giant Crookneck are favorite 
early yellow-fruited varieties. Hubbard is one 
of the best winter varieties. Other winter 
varieties of special merit are Warted Hubbard, 
Golden Hubbard, Boston Marrow, and Deli- 
cata. 

The squash should have about the same cul- 
tural treatment as the melon, though it is less 
difficult to grow. Early plants may be started 
under glass in the same manner as described for 
cucumbers. The more common plan is to sow 
seed in the open ground. The soil should be 
rich and well drained. The bush types of patty 
pan and crookneck may be planted in hills 4x4 
feet apart, while those with running vines, like 
the Hubbard, should be spaced from 8x8 feet 
apart to 10 x 12 feet, distance depending on the 



SWEET CORN 173 

fertility of the soil. It is customary to plant lo 
or more seeds in each hill, and then to thin the 
plants to two or three. Two or three forkfuls 
of rotten manure should be planted in each hill. 

The winter squashes should be harvested be- 
fore hard frosts occur, and with the utmost care, 
to prevent bruising. They may be easily kept 
in warm, dry rooms. Commercial storage 
houses endeavor to hold the temperature above 
50. Squashes keep very well in crates placed 
near the cellar furnace. 

SWEET CORN 

{Zea mays) 

It IS unnecessary to discuss the importance of 
this crop, either from a commercial standpoint 
or from its value in the home garden. Nearly 
everybody is extremely fond of a strictly high- 
grade product. Fordhook is a very early 
small-eared variety. White Cob Cory is a gen- 
eral favorite and quite early. Golden Bantam 
heads the list in quality. It is becoming exceed- 
ingly popular because of its superb flavor. 

Cosmopolitan is a mid-season variety that 
produces beautiful ears. Country Gentleman 
and Stowell Evergreen are well-known, prolific 
late varieties. Disappointment is often due to 
the use of poor seed. When possible it pays to 



174 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

grow one's own seed, store it on the cob, and 
make germination tests of the ke/nels before 
planting. 

The plants are easily started under glass by 
planting about 6 kernels in a three-inch pot three 
weeks in advance of planting in the garden. 
The plants should be thinned to 3 or 4. Cold- 
frames will do for this purpose. The soil 
should be well enriched by the application of 
manure. High-grade fertilizers can also be 
used advantageously. Any soil which will grow 
a good crop of field corn will produce good 
sweet corn. Clover or timothy sod, plowed in 
the fall or very early in the spring, provides ex- 
cellent conditions for sweet corn. 

Planting in the open ground, on a very large 
scale, should not occur until after danger of 
hard, killing frosts. In the home garden and in 
small commercial plantations, we may be justi- 
fied in taking some risk by planting quite early, 
replanting if the plants are killed by frost. The 
first of May is not too early to do some planting 
in the North, and successive plantings should be 
made until probably the latter part of June, or 
even later in warm sections, if there is time for 
the crop to mature before killing frosts are 
likely to appear in the fall. 



SWEET POTATO 175 

The distance between plants depends mainly 
on the vigor of the varieties to be grown. The 
smaller varieties like Fordhook and Golden 
Bantam do not need more than 9 inches between 
plants in the row and 32 inches is sufficient space 
between rows. For the late varieties, 1x4 feet 
is satisfactory. There should be clean tillage 
throughout the period of growth. It also pays 
to remove any suckers that may appear around 
the plants. The safest plan, especially in small 
plantations, is to use plenty of seed to Insure a 
good stand of plants, and then to thin as much 
as may be necessary. 

SWEET POTATO 

(Ipomoea batatas) 

The sweet potato is one of our most Impor- 
tant truck crops. It is important in the Atlantic 
Coast States and throughout the South. Some 
of the best known varieties are Big Stem Jersey, 
Yellow Jersey, Red Jersey, Southern Queen, 
Pumpkin Yam, Georgia, Red Bermuda, Black 
Spanish, and Shanghai. 

The sweet potato grows best at high tempera- 
ture. For this reason It Is an unsatisfactory 
crop for most sections of the North. The 
sandy soils are considered best adapted to sweet 



176 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

potatoes. In the South, very good crops are 
grown in fairly heavy soils, provided the latter 
are well drained. 

Sweet potatoes are usually propagated by 
growing " slips '* or " sets." This is accom- 
plished by bedding the tubers in fine, moist sand, 
and supplying sufficient heat to cause them to 
sprout. This may be readily done in green- 
houses or hotbeds. Ordinarily, a period of 
about six weeks is required to secure well-rooted 
plants. These are set in the open ground, after 
there is no further danger of frost, on ridges 
(though level culture is sometimes practiced), 
36 to 42 inches apart, and the plants should be 
spaced 14 to 18 inches apart in the row. For 
this crop, thoroughly composted manures are 
valuable and complete fertilizers are often em- 
ployed with excellent results. It is desirable to 
harvest the crop before frost. The tubers 
should be placed in warm, dry storage. 
Squashes and sweet potatoes are often kept in 
the same house. 

THYME 

{Thymus vulgaris) 

This IS a popular herb that is used for season- 
ing. It is easily propagated by means of seeds, 
root divisions, and layers. It grows well in any 



TOMATO 177 

good soil. The plants should stand about 6 
inches apart in the row. The leaves may be 
used green or dried and preserved for winter 
use. 

TOMATO 

{Lycopersicum esculentum) 

This vegetable of South American origin oc- 
cupies a most important place in the long list of 
vegetables grown in the United States. Cer- 
tainly, no home garden is complete without it 
and it is extensively grown on truck farms and 
general farms throughout the country. 

While the tomato is easily injured by frost, 
and retarded in growth by cool weather, it may, 
by the employment of proper methods, be pro- 
duced in practically every section where other 
vegetables are grown. If early varieties are 
selected and the plants grown to a good size un- 
der glass, ripe specimens may be picked in 40 
days from the time the plants are set in the open 
ground. Again, in localities where late spring 
or early summer frosts are prevalent, the plants 
may be thoroughly protected, so that this is not 
a real barrier to their cultivation. 

The tomato is at home in a great variety of 
soils. Sandy loams provide ideal conditions, 
though the crop is grown successfully on a large 
commercial scale in soils having the widest range 



178 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

of physical properties. Thorough soil drainage 
is absolutely essential to success and there should 
be a reasonable amount of organic matter In the 
soil. 

Earllana and Bonny Best are the most exten- 
sively-grown early varieties, both producing red 
fruits. Chalk Jewel, which ripens somewhat 
later, Is also excellent. Stone and Matchless 
are unusually good late red tomatoes. June 
Pink Is a well-known early pink variety. Globe 
a desirable mid-season purple variety, and 
Beauty and Trucker's Favorite are valuable late 
varieties of this class. 

The seedsmen supply excellent seed of the 
leading varieties and It Is also a simple matter 
to breed and save tomato seed In the home 
plantation. Seed for early tomatoes should be 
sowm under glass not later than March i, and 
many growers prefer to sow ten days to two 
weeks earlier. The seedlings should be trans- 
planted Into flats and later Into pots. 

When extra fine plants are desired, it is cus- 
tomary to make the final shift Into 4 or 5 inch 
pots. The plants should be from 8 to 10 inches 
tall w^hen they are taken to the field or garden. 
Smaller plants, of course, may be used with en- 
tire success, but the crop will not be so early. 
If the plants bear a few clusters of flowers and 



TOMATO 179 

perhaps a few newly-formed fruits when they 
are transferred to the garden, there will be no 
question about the earliness of the crop. 

Clover or grass sods plowed very early in the 
spring provide most excellent soil conditions for 
tomatoes. The crop may also be grown suc- 
cessfully on land which was used the preceding 
year for other vegetables or general farm crops. 
Rotten manure can usually be applied to advan- 
tage. Commercial fertilizers containing liberal 
amounts of the three elements commonly found 
in complete mixtures are also beneficial. In 
most soils, looo pounds of a 4-7-8 mixture 
should meet the requirements of the crop. 

The proper distance between plants depends 
on the varieties to be planted, method of train- 
ing, and fertility of the soil. Ordinarily, the 
plants should be set 4 x 4 feet apart, if there Is 
to be no pruning or training. In very rich soil, 
there should be more space. If the plants are 
to be formed and trained to single stems, they 
may be planted 1 8 inches apart in the row, and it 
will be unnecessary to allow more than 30 inches 
between rows, though more space Is a decided 
advantage in cultivating with a horse. 

In small garden plots. It Is possible to get very 
good results by planting 20 x 20 Inches apart, 
when the plants may be trained to single stems. 



180 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

This plan of training is quite popular among 
home gardeners and is used to some extent by 
commercial growers. It simply consists in re- 
moving .with the thumb and finger all side or 
lateral shoots as rapidly as they appear, thus in- 
ducing the growth of a single stem which is tied 
to a stake or wire trellis. When the plant 
reaches the height of about five feet the top is 
pinched off and no further growth of stem is 
permitted. This plan of training results in very 
early, large tomatoes that are clean and easy to 
pick. The plan is especially desirable for small 
gardens w^here ground is at a premium. 

It pays to exercise special care in marketing 
very early tomatoes. An excellent plan is to 
wrap the fruits in tissue paper and pack them in 
baskets that will hold about 5 pounds. 

When any of the fungous diseases of the to- 
mato appear to a troublesome extent, the plants 
should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture at in- 
tervals of two or three weeks from the time the 
seedlings are up until the crop Is well matured. 
The flea beetle sometimes appears In great num- 
bers soon after the plants are set In the open 
ground. It may be successfully repelled by 
spraying with arsenate of lead. 



TURNIP 181 

TURNIP 

{Brassica rapa) 

The turnip Is one of our best root crops. It 
Is of easy culture and does well in a great variety 
of soil types, the sandy loams being the best. 
The soil should be fertile and moist but 
well drained. White Milan, Red or Purple 
Top, White Flat Dutch, Purple Top White 
Globe, White Egg, and Yellow Globe are ex- 
cellent varieties. 

Though turnip seed is often sown broadcast, 
it is better to sow the seed in drills 12 to 18 
Inches apart and to thin the plants to 2 or 3 
inches apart for early varieties and 4 or 5 Inches 
for late varieties. The seed should seldom be 
covered with more than half an Inch of soil. 
Sowings for the early crop can be made as soon 
as the ground is dry enough to work and for the 
late crop the latter part of July or early In Au- 
gust. The roots are easily preserved during the 
winter by storing them In a cool cellar and cover- 
ing them with a few Inches of moist soil or sand 
to retain their moisture, and thus prevent them 
from shriveling. They may also be held over 
winter by burying. 



18S THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

WATERMELON 

{Citrullus ^'ulgaris) 

The instructions which have been given for 
the culture of muskmelons apply equally well 
to watermelons, except that the latter require 
more space. There are many good varieties. 
Among the best may be mentioned Kleckley 
Sweet, Kolb Gem, Cuban Queen, Halbert 
Honey, Dixie, and Sugar Stick. Cole and 
Fordhook are very early varieties. Baby De- 
light is an extremely small but prohfic melon of 
good quality. 

Watermelons may be started under glass in 
the same way as other cucurbits. The most 
common distance for planting is loxio feet 
apart. The hills should be made rich by the use 
of several shovelfuls of rotten manure in each. 
Use plenty of seed and thin to 3 or 4 plants in 
each hill. 



APPENDIX 

Number of Plants Required to the Acre at 
Various Distances. 

1 in. X lo in 627,269 18 in. x 2 ft 14j520 

1 in. X 13 in 532,720 18 in. x 30 in 11,616 

2 in. X lo in 313,633 18 in. x 3 ft 9,680 

2 in. X 13 in 261,360 18 in. x 4 ft 7,260 

3 in. X 13 in 174,340 18 in. x 5 ft 5,804 

4 in. X 13 in 130,680 3 ft. x 3 ft 10,890 

6 in. X 13 in 87,130 3 ft. x 3 ft 7,360 

13 in. X 13 in 43, 560 3 ft. x 4 ft 5,445 

13 in. X 15 in 34,848 3 ft. x 5 ft 4,356 

13 in. X 18 in 39,040 3 ft. x 3 ft 4,840 

13 in. X 34 in 31,780 3 ft. x 4 ft 3,630 

13 in. X 30 in 17,424 3 ft. x 5 ft 2,904 

13 in. X 3 ft 14,520 4 ft. x 4 ft 3,733 

13 in. X 4 ft 10,890 4 ft. X 5 ft 2,178 

13 in. X 5 ft 8,713 5 ft. X 5 ft 1,742 

15 in. X 18 in 33,333 5 ft. x 6 ft 1,452 

15 in. X 3 ft 17,424 6 ft. X 6 ft 1,310 

15 in. X 3 ft 11,619 6 ft. X 7 ft 1,037 

15 in. X 4 ft 8,713 6 ft. X 8 ft 907 

15 in. X 5 ft 6,969 7 ft. X 7 ft 888 

18 in. X 30 in 17,424 8 ft. x 8 ft 680 

Quantity of Seed Required to the Acre. 

Asparagus, 2>< ounces to loo feet of drill: 
2 pounds should produce enough roots to plant 
an acre. 

Beans, dwarf, i quart to loo feet of drill; 
I J4 bushels an acre. Lima, % bushel to an 

183 



184. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

acre. Pole, i pint to lOO feet drill; y^ bushel 
an acre. 

Beet, i ounce to 50 feet of drill; 4 pounds to 
an acre. 

Broccoli, i ounce to 300 feet of drill; 2 
ounces an acre. 

Cabbage, i ounce to 300 feet of drill; hotbed 
or greenhouse i ounce should produce at least 
2,000 plants; outdoors, i pound should produce 
at least 20,000 plants. 

Carrot, i ounce to 100 feet of drill; 2}^ 
pounds to an acre. 

Cauliflower, i ounce should produce 3,000 
or more plants. 

Celery, Vs ounce to 100 feet of drill; 
I ounce should produce at least 10,000 
plants. 

Sweet Corn, J4 to ^ pint to 100 hills ; when 
planted in hills i peck to an acre. 

Cucumbers, i to 2 ounces to 100 hills; i to 2 
pounds to an acre. 

Eggplant, i ounce should produce 1,500 to 
2,000 plants. 

Endive, }i ounce to 100 feet of drill; 4J4 
pounds to an acre. 

Kale, i ounce to 300 feet of drill. 

Kohl-Rabi, I ounce to 300 feet of drill; 4 
pounds an acre. 



APPENDIX 185 

Leek, i ounce to loo feet of drill; 4 pounds 
an acre. 

Lettuce, y^ ounce to 100 feet of drill; 3 
pounds to an acre. 

Muskmelon, 2 ounces to 100 hills; 4x4 
feet, 2 pounds to an acre. 

Onion, seed, >^ ounce to 100 feet of drill; 4 
to 5 pounds an acre. Sets, i quart to 40 feet 
of drill; 8 bushels, and more if large, an acre. 

Parsley, >^ ounce to 100 feet of drill; 3 
pounds to an acre. 

Peas, i to 2 pints to 100 feet of drill; i ^ to 
2j^ bushels an acre. 

Pepper, i ounce should produce 1,500 
plants. 

Radish, i ounce to 100 feet of drill; 10 to 12 
pounds an acre. 

Rhubarb, i ounce of seed to 125 feet of 
drill; 3^ pounds to an acre. 

Salsify, i ounce of seed to 100 feet of drill; 
8 pounds to an acre. 

Spinach, i ounce to 100 feet of drill; 8 
pounds to an acre; broadcast, 30 pounds to an 
acre. 

Squash, summer, 4 ounces to 100 hills. Fall 
and winter, 8 ounces to 100 hills. 

Tomato, i ounce of seed should produce 
3,000 to 4,000 plants. 



186 THE VEGETABLE GARDEN 

Turnip, i ounce to 200 feet of drill; i to 2 
pounds to an acre. 

Watermelon, i ounce to 30 hills. 



THE END 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY'-NEW YORK 

U A WfMinOl^ C ^*e ttxlhooh for out- 
rMJ\lSUDKJ\Jr%,D door work and play 

H Each book deals with a separate Bubject and deals with it thor- 
oughly. If you want to know anything about Airedales an OUTING 
HANDBOOK gives you all you want. If it's Apple Growing, another 
OUTING HANDBOOK meets your need. The Fisherman, the 
Camper, the Poultry-raiser, the Automobilist, the Horseman, all 
varieties of out-door enthusiasts, will find separate volumes for their 
separate interests. There is no waste space. 

H The series is based on the plan of one subject to a book and each 
book complete. The authors are experts. Each book has been 
specially prepared for this series and all are published in uniform 
style, fle»ble cloth binding. 

€L Two hundred titles are projected. The series covers all phases 
of outdoor life, from bee-keeping to big-game shooting. Among the 
books now ready or in preparation are thoee described on the fol- 
lowing pages. 

PRICE SEVENTY CENTS PER VOL. NET, POSTAGE 5c EXTRA 
THE NUMBERS MAKE ORDERING EASY. 

1. EXERCISE AND HEALTH, by Dr. Woods 

Hutchinson. Dr. Hutchinson takes the common-sense view that 
the greatest problem in exercise for most of us is to get enough of 
the right kind. The greatest error in exercise is not to take enough, 
and the greatest danger in athletics is in giving them up. He writes 
in a direct matter-of-fact manner with an avoidance of medical terms, 
and a strong emphasis on the rational, all-round manner of living 
that is best calculated to bring a man to a ripe old age with little 
illness or consciousness of bodily weakness. 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY-NEW YORK 
2. CAMP COOKERY, by Horace Kephart. «i 

less a man carries in his pack the more he mnst carry in his hea 
says Mr. Kephart. This book tells what a man should carry in b 
pack and head. Every step is traced — the selection of provisi 
and utensils, with the kind and quantity of each, the preparatioi 
game, the building of fires, the cooking of every conceivable kin< 
food that the camp outfit or woods, fields or streams may provid 
even to the making of desserts. Every recipe is the result of h 
practice and long experience. 




3. BACKWOODS SURGERY AND MEDICIJN 
by Charles S. Moody, M. D. A handy book for the f 
dent lover of the woods who doesn't expect to be ill but believes 
being on the safe side. Common-sense methods for the treatm 
of the ordinary wounds and accidents are described — setting 
broken limb, reducing a dislocation, caring for burns, cuts, i 
Practical remedies for camp diseases are recommended, as well 
the ordinary indications of the most probable ailments. Include 
list of the necessary medical and surgical supplies. 

4. APPLE GROWING, by M. C. Burritt. i 

various problems conJfronting the apple grower, from the preparat 
of the soil and the planting of the trees to the marketing of the fri 
are discussed in detail by the author. Chapter headings are: — 1 
Outlook for the Growing of Apples — Planning for the Orchar< 
Planting and Growing the Orchard— Pruning the Trees — Cultivat 
and Cover Cropping — Manuring and Fertilizing — Insects and I 
eases Affecting the Apple — The Principles and Practice of Spray 
— Harvesting and Storing— Markets and Marketing — Some Hints 
Renovating Old Orchards — The Cost of Growing Apples. 

5. THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes. a 
book opens with a short chapter on the origin and development 
the Airedale, as a distinctive breed. The author then takes up \ 
problems of type as bearing on the selection of the dog, breedi 
training and use. The book is designed for the non-professional c 
fancier, who wishes common sense advice which does not invo 
elaborate preparations or expenditmre. Chapters are included on 1 
care of Uic dog in the kennel and simple remedies for ordiu 
diseases. 



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r ■ 

6. THE AUTOMOBILE.— Its selection, Care and 
Use, by Robert Sloss. This is a plain, practical discussion of 
tie things tnat every man needs to know ii'he is to buy the right car 
and get the most out of it, The various details of operation and 
care are given in simple, intelligent terms. From it the car owner 
can easily learn the mechanism of his motor and the art of locating 
motor trouble, as well as how to use his car for the greatest pleasure. 
A chapter is included on building garages. 

7. FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT, by 

Samuel G. Gamp. A complete guide to the angler buying a new 
outfit. Every detail of the fishing kit of the freshwater angler is de- 
Bcribed, from rodtip to creel, and clothing. Special emphasis is laid 
on outfitting for fly fishing, but full instruction is also given to the 
man who wants to catch pickerel, pike, muskellunge, lake-trout, bass 
and other freshwater game fishes. Prices are quoted for all articles 
recommended and the approved method of selecting and testing the 
various rods, lines, leaders, etc., is described. 




8. THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by Samuel G. 

Camp. Combine the pleasure of catching fish with the gratification 
of following the sport in the most approved manner. The sugges- 
tions offered are helpftil to beginner and expert anglers. The range 
of fish and fishing conditions covered is wide and includes such sub- 
jects as **Ca8ting Fine and Far Off," "Strip-Casting for Bass," "Fish- 
ing for Mountain Trout" and **Autumn Fishing for Lake Trout." 
The book is pervaded with a cpirit of love for the streamside and 
the out-doors generally which the genuine angler will appreciate. 
A companion book to "Fishing Kits and Equipment." The advice 
on outfitting so capably given in that book is supplemented in this 
later work by equally valuable information on how to use the 
equipment. 

9. THE HORSE— Its Breeding, Care and Use, by 
David Bufifum. Mr. Buffiun takes up the common, cvery-day 
problems of the ordinary horse-users, such as feeding, shoeing, 
simple home remedies, breaking and the cure for various equine 
▼ices. An important chapter is that tracing the influx of Arabian 
blood into the English and American horses and its value and limi- 
tations. Chapters are included on draft-horses, carriage horses, and 
the development of the two-minute trotter. It is distinctly a sensible 
book for the sensible man who -^vishes to know how he can improve 
his horses and his horsempnsfcij) at the same time* 



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10. THE MOTOR BOAT— Its Selection, Care an^ 

Use, by H. W. Slauson. The intending purcliaser is advised 
as to the type of motor boat best suited to his particular needs and 
how to keep it in running condition after purchased. The chapter 
headings are : Eands and Uses of Motor Boats — "When the Motor 
Balks — Speeding of the Motor Boat — Getting More Power from a 
New Motor — How to Install a Marine Power Plant — Accessories- 
Covers, Canopies and Tops — Camping and Cruising — The Boathouse. 

11. OUTDOOR SIGNALLING, by Elbert Wells. 

Mr. WeUs has perfected a method of signalling by means of wig- 
wag, light, smoke, or whistle which is as simple as it is effective. 
The fundamental principle can bo learned in ten minutes and its 
appUcation is far easier than that of any other code now in use. 
It permits also the use of cipher and can be adapted to almost any 
imaginable conditions of weather, light, or topography. 

12. TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef Brunner. 

After twenty years of patient study and practical experience, Mr. 
Brunner can, from his intimate knowledge, speak with authority on 
this subject. "Tracks and Tracking" shows how to follow intelli- 
gently even the most intricate animal or bird tracks. It teaches how 
to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the many tell-tale 
signs of the chase that would otherwise pass unnoticed. It proves 
how it is possible to tell from the footprints the name, sex, speed, 
direction, whether and how wounded, and many other things about 
wild animals and birds. All material has been gathered first hand ; 
the drawings and half-tones from photographs form an important 
part of the work. 




•^1 

13. WING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by Charles 

Askins. Contains a full discussion of the various methods, 
such as snap-shooting, swing and half-swing, discusses the flight of 
birds with reference to the gunner's problem of lead and range and 
makes special application of the various points to the different birds 
commonly shot in this country. A chapter is included on trap 
shooting and the book closes with a forceful and common-sense 
presentation of the etiquette of the field. 



" OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY-^NEW YORK 

14. PROFITABLE BREEDS OF POULTRY, by 

Arthur S. Wheeler. Mr. "Wheeler discusses from personal ex- 
perience the J)est-known general purpose breeds. Advice is given 
trom the standpoint of the* man who desires results in eggs and stock 
rather than in specimens for exhibition. In addition to a careful 
analysis of stock — good and bad — and some conclusions regarding 
housing and management, the author writes in detail regarding 
Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, 
Mediterraneans and the Cornish. 

15. RIFLES AND RIFLE SHOOTING, by Charles 

Askins. A practical manual describing various makes and mechan- 
isms, in addition to discussing in detail the range and limitations in 
the use of the rifle. Treats on the every style and make of rifle 
aa well as their use. Every type of rifle ia ^scussed so that the 
book is complete in every detail. 

16. SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace Kephart. 

This book is the result of painstaking tests and experiments. Prac- 
tically nothing is taken for granted. Part I deals with the rifle, and 
Part n with the shotgun. The man seeking guidance in the selec- 
tion and use of small firearms, as well as the advanced student of 
the subject, will receive an unusual amount of assistance from this 
work. The chapter headings are: Rifles and Ammunition — The 
Flight of Bullets — Killing Power — Rifle Mechanism and Materials — 
Rifle Sights — Triggers and Stocks — Care of Rifle — Shot Patterns and 
Penetration — Gauges and Weights — Mechanism and Build of 
Shotguns. 

17. THEYACHTSMAN'SHANDBOOK,byHerbert 

L. Stone. The author and compiler of this work is the editor of 
** Yachting." He treats in simple language of the many problems 
confronting the amateur sailor and motor boatman. Handling 
ground tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the use of the lead 
line, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are all given carefal 
attention. Some light is thrown upon the operation of the gasoline 
motor, and suggestions are made for the avoidance of engine 
troubles. 

18. SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS, by Wil- 

liams Haynes. This is a companion book to "The Airedale,*' 
and deals with the history and development of both breeds. For 
the owner of the dog, valuable information is given as to the use of 
the terriers, their treatment in health, their treatment when sick, 
the principles of dog breeding, and dog shows and rules. 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK: ' 

19. NAVIGATION FOR THE AMATEUR, by Capt. 

E. T. Morton. A short treatise on tlie eimpler methods of find- 
ing position at sea by the observation of the eiui's ahitude and the 
use of the sextant and chronometer. It is arranged especially for 
yachtsmen and amateurs who wish to know the simpler formulae 
for the necessary navigation involved in taking a boat anywhere off 
shore. Illustrated with drawings. Chapter headings : Fundamental 
Terms — Time — The Sumner Line— The Day's Work, Equal Altitude, 
and Ex-Meridian Sights — Hints on Taking Observations. 

20. OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by JuHan A. 

Dimock. A solution of all the problems in camera work out-of- 
doors. The various subjects dealt with are : The Camera — Lens and 
Plates — Light and Exposiore — Development — Prints and Printing — 
Composition— Landscapes — Figure Work— Speed Photography — ^The 
Leaping Tarpon — Sea Pictures^In the Good Old Winter Time — 
Wild life. 

21. PACKING AND PORTAGING, by Dillon 

Wallace. Mr. Wallace has brought together in one volume all 
the valuable information on the different ways of making and carry- 
ing the different kinds of packs. The ground covered ranges from 
man«paoking to horse-packing, from tiie use of the tamp line to 
throwing the diamond hitch. 

22. THE BULL TERRIER, by WiUiams Haynes. 
This is a companion book to "The Airedale" and '*Scottish and Irish 
Terriers" by the same author. Its greatest usefulness is as a guide 
to the dog owner who wishes to be his own kennel manager. A full 
account of the development of the breed is given with a description 
of best types and standards. Recommendations for the care of 
the dog in health or sickness are included. The chapter heads 
cover such matters as:— The Bull Terrier's History— Training the 
Bull Terrier—The Terrier in Health^^enneling— Diseases. 




OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 

23. THE FOX TERRIER, by WiUiams Haynes. 

As in his other books on the terrier, Mr. Haynes takes up the origin 
and history of the breed, its types and standards, and the more ex- 
clusive representatives down to the present time. Training the Fox 
Terrier — His Care and Kenneling in Sickness and Health — and the 
Various Uses to Which He Can Be Put— are among the phases 
handled. 

24. SUBURBAN GARDENS, by Grace Tabor. 

Illustrated with diagrams. The author regards the house and 
grounds as a complete unit and shows how the best results may be 
obtained by carrying the reader in detail through the various phases 
of designing the garden, with the levels and contours necessary, 
laying out the walks and paths, planning and placing the arbors, 
summer houses, seats, etc., and selecting and placing trees, shrubs, 
vines and flowers. Ideal plans for plots of various sizes are appended, 
as well as suggestions for correcting mistakes that have been made 
through "starting wrong." 




25. FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES, by 

Samuel G. Camp. This is an art that is comparatively new in 
this country although English anglers have used the dry fly for 
generations. Mr. Camp has given the matter special study and is 
one of the few American anglers who really understands the matter 
from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the fish. His book 
lakes up the process in that order, namely — How to Outfit for Dry 
Fly Fishing—How, Where, and When to Cast— The Selection and 
Use of Floating Flies — Dry Fly Fishing for Brook, Brown and 
Rainbow Trout — Hooking, Playing and Landing — Practical Hints on 
Dry Fly Fishing. 

26. THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold Whiting 

Slauson. Deals with the practical problems of motor operation. 
The standpoint is that of the man who wishes to know how and 
why gasoline generates power and something about the various 
types. Describes in detail the diff*erent parts of motors and the 
faults to which they are liable. Also gives full directions as to re- 
pair and upkeep. Various chapters deal with Types of Motors — 
Valves — Bearings — Ignition — Carburetors — Lubrication — Fuel — 
Two Cycle Motors. 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 

27. ICE BOATING, by H. L. Stone. lUustrated with 

diagrams. Here have been brought together all the available in- 
formatiori on the organization and history of ice-boating, the build- 
ing of the various types of ice yachts, from the small 15 footer to 
the 600-foot racer, together with detailed plans and specifications. 
Full information is also given to meet the needs of those who wish 
to be able to build and sail their own boats but are handicapped by 
the lack of proper knowledge as to just the points described in this 
volume. 

28. MODERN GOLF, by Harold H. HHton. Mr. 

Hilton is the only man who has ever held the amateur champion- 
ship of Great Britain and the United States in the same year. In 
addition to this, he has, for years, been recognized as one of the 
most intelligent, steady players of the game in England. This book 
is a product of his advanced thought and experience and gives the 
reader sound advice, not so much on the mere swinging of the clubs 
as in the actual playing of the game, with all the factors that enter 
into it. He discusses the use of wooden clubs, the choice of clubs, 
the art of approaching, tournament play as a distinct thing in itself, 
and kindred subjects. 

29. INTENSIVE FAEMING, by L. C. Corbett. 

A discussion of the meaning, method and value of intensive methods 
in agriculture. This book is designed for the convenience of prac- 
tical farmers who find themselves under the necessity of making a 
living out of high-priced land. 

30. PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING, by WiUiams 

Haynes. This is a companion volume to PRACTICAL DOG 
KEEPING, described below. It goes at length into the funda- 
mental questions of breeding, such as selection of types on both 
sides, the perpetuation of desirable, and the elimination of undesir- 
able, quaUties, the value of prepotency in building up a desired 
breed, etc. The arguments are illustrated with instances of what 
has been accomplished, both good and bad, in the case of well- 
known breeds. 

31. PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, by Williams 

Haynes. Mr. Haynes is weU known to the readers of the OUTING 
HANDBOOKS as the author of books on the terriers. His new 
book is somewhat more ambitious in that it carries him into the 
general field of selection of breeds, the buying and selling of dogs, 
the care of dogs in kennels, handling in bench shows and field trials, 
and at considerable length into such subjects as food and feeding, 
e^&ercise and grooming, disease, etc 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY-NEW YORK 




32. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN, by R. L. Watts. 

This book is designed for the small grower with a limited plot of 
ground. The reader is told what types of vegetables to select, the 
manner of planting and cultivation, and the returns that may be 
expected. 

33. AMATEUR RODMAKING, by Perry D.Frazer. 

Illustrated, a practical manual for all those who want to make 
their own rod and fittings. It contains a review of fishing rod his- 
tory, a discussion of materials, a list of the tools needed, description 
ol the method to be foUowed in making all kinds of rods, including 
tly-castmg, bait-fishing, salmon, etc., with full instructions for wind- 
ing, varnishing, qXq, 

34. PISTOL AND REVOLVER SHOOTING, by A. L. 

A. Eimmelwriglit. A new and revised edition of a'work that has 
already achieved prominence as an accepted authority on the use of 
the hand gun. Full instructions are given in the use of both revolver 
and target pistol, including shooting position, grip, position of arm, etc. 
The book is thoroughly illustrated with diagrams and photographs 
and includes the, amies of the United States Revolver Association 
and a list of the records made both here and abroad. 

35. PIGEON RAISING, by Alice MacLeod. This 

is a book for both fancier and market breeder. Full descriptions 
are given of the construction of houses, the care of the birds, pre- 
paration for market, and shipment. Descriptions of the various 
breeds with their markings and characteristics are given. Illustrated 
with photographs and diagrams. 

36. FISHING TACKLE, by Perry D, Frazer. H- 

lustrated. The subtitle is descriptive. "Hints for Beginners in 
the Selection, Care, and Use of Rods, Reels, Lines, etc." It tells all 
the fisherman needs to know about making and overhauling his 
tackle during the closed season and gives full instructions for tour- 
nament casting and fly-casting. Chapters are included on cases and 
boiders tor the care of tackle when not in use. 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY^NEW YORK 

37. AUTOMOBILE OPERATION, by A. L. 

Brennan, Jr. Illustrated. Tells the plain truth ahout the little 
things that every motorist wants to know about his own car. Do 
you want to cure ignition troubles? Overhaul and adjust your 
carbureter? Keep your transmission in order? Get the maximum 
wear out of your tires? Do any other of the hundred and one 
things that are necessary for the greatest use and enjoyment of your 
car? Then you will find this book usefuL 

38. THE FOX HOUND, by Roger D. WilHams. 
Author of "Horse and Hound", niustrated. The author is 
the foremost authority on fox himting and foxhounds in America. 
For years he has kept the foxhound studbook, and is the final source 
of information on all disputed points relating to this breed. His 
book discusses types, methods of training, kenneling, diseases and 
all the other practical points relating to the use and care of ths^ 
hound. An appendix is added containing the rules and regulations 
of hound field trials. 

39. SALT WATER GAME FISHING, by Charlea 

F. Holder. Mr. Holder covers the whole field of his subject 
devoting a chapter each to such fish as the tuna, the tarpon, amber* 
jack, the sail fish, the yellow-tail, the king fish, the barracuda, the 
sea bass and the small game fishes of Florida, Porto Rico, the Pacific 
Coast, Hawaii, and the Philippines. The habits and habitats of the 
fish are described, together with the methods and tackle for taking 
them. The book concludes with an account of the development 
and rales of the American Sea Angling Clubs. Illustrated. 

40. WINTER CAMPING, by Warwick S. Carpenter. 

A book that meets the increasing interest in outdoor life in the cold 
weather. !Mr, Carpenter discusses such subjects as shelter equipment, 
clothing, food, snowshoeing, skiing, and winter hunting, wild life in 
winter woods, care of frost bite, etc. It is based on much actual ex- 
perience in winter camping and is folly illustrated with working 
photographs. 

4L WOODCRAFT FOR WOMEN, by Mrs. Kath- 
rene Gedney Pinkerton. The author has spent several years in 
the Canadian woods and is thoroughly familiar with the subject firom 
both the masculine and feminine point of view. She gives sound 
tips on clothing, camping outfit, food supplies, and methods, by 
which the woman may adjust herself to the outdoor environment. 

42. SMALL BOAT BUILDING, by H. W. Patterson. 

Illustrated with diagrams and plans. A working manual for the man 
who wants to be his own designer and builder. Detail descriptions 
and drawings are given showing the various stages in the building, 
and chapters are included on proper materials and details. 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY— NEW YORK 



43. *READING THE WEATHER, by T. Morris 

Longstreth. The author gives in detail the various recognized 
signs for different kinds of weather based primarily on the material 
worked out by the Government Weather Bureau, gives rules by 
which the character and duration of storms may be estimated, and 
gives instructions for sensible use of the barometer. He also gives 
useful information as to various weather averages for different parts 
of the country, at different times of the year, and furnishes sound 
advice for the camper, sportsman, and others who wish to know what 
they may expect in the weather line. 

44. BOXING, by D. C. Hutchison. ., Practical in- 

struction for men who wish to learn the first steps* in the manly 
art. Mr. Hutchison writes from long personal experience as an 
amateur boxer and as a trainer of other amateurs. His instructions 
are accompanied with ftdl diagrams showing the approved blows 
and guards. He also gives fiill directions for training for condition 
without danger of going stale from overtraining. It is essentially a 
book for the amateur who boxes for sport and exercise. 

45. TEIWIS TACTICS, by Raymond D. Little. 

Out of his store of experience as a successfol tennis player, Mr. 
Little has written this practical guide for those who wish to know 
how real tennis is played. He tells the reader when and how to 
take the net, discusses the relative merits of the back-court ♦and 
volleying game and how their proper balance may be achieved; 
analyzes and appraises the twist service, shows the fundamental 
necessities of euccessful doubles play. 

46. *HOW TO PLAY TENNIS, by James Burns. 

This book gives simple, direct instruction from the professional 
standpoint on the fundamentals of the game. It tells the reader how 
to hold his racket, how to swing it for the various strokes, how to 
stand and how to cover the court. These points are illustrated with 
photographs and diagrams. The author also illustrates the course 
of the ball in the progress of play and points out the positions of 
greatest safety and greatest danger. 

47. TAXIDERMY, by Leon L. Pray, niustrated with 

diagrams.^ Being a practical taxidermist, the author at once goes into 
the question of selection of tools and materials for the various stages 
of skinning, 8tufl&ng and mounting. The subjects whose handling 
is described are, for the most part, the every-day ones, such as 
ordinary birds, small mammals, etc., although adequate instructions 
are included for mounting big game specimens, as well as the pre- 
liminary care of ekins in hot climates. Full diagrams accompany 
the text* 



OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY^NEW YOR K 

48. THE CANOE— ITS SELECTION, CARE AND 

USE, by Robert E. Pinkerton. Illustrated with photographs. 
With proper use the canoe is one of the safests craft3 that floats. 
Mr. Pinkerton tells how that state ©f safety may he obtained. He 
gives fall instructions for the selection of the right canoe for each 
particular purpose or set of conditionso Then ho tdls how it should 
be used in order to secure the maximum of safety, comfort and use- 
fulness. His own lesson was learned among the Indians of Canada, 
where paddling is a high art, and the use of the canoe almost as 
much a matter of course as ihe wearing of moccasins. 

49. HORSE PACKING, by Charles J. Post. 

Illustrated with diagrams. This is a complete description of the 
hitches, knots, and apparatus used in making and canying loads of 
various kinds on horseback. Its basis is the methods followed in the 
West and in the American Army. The diagrams are full and detailed, 
giving the various hitches and knots at each of the important stages 
so that even the novice can follow and use them. It is the only 
book ever published on this subject of which this could be said. 
Full description is given of the ideal pack animal, as well as a cata- 
logue of the diseases and injuries to which such animals are subject. 

51. *LEARNING TO SKATE, by J. F.Verne. The 

general problem of the art of skating is taken up from the etandpoint 
of the man or woman who puts on skates for the first time. Funda- 
mental rules are laid down for learning the simpler strokes, carrying 
the reader on through to speed and fancy skating. Advice is in- 
cluded on the proper skates and clothing. 

52. *TOURING AFOOT, hj Dr. C. P. Fordyce. 

Illustrated. This book is designed to meet the growing interest in 
walking trips and covers the whole field of outfit and method for trips 
of varying length. Various standard camping devices are described 
and outfits are prescribed for all conditions. It ia based on the 
assumption that the reader will want to carry on his own back every- 
thing that he requires for the trip. 

53. *THE MARINE MOTOR, by Lieut. 

Frank W. Sterling, U. S. N. Illustrated with diagrams. 
This book is the product of a wide experience on the engineering 
staff of the United States Navy. It gives careful descriptions of 
the various parts of the marine motor, their relation to the whole and 
their method of operation ; it also describes the commoner troubles 
and suggests remedies. The principal types of engines are described 
in detail with diagrams. The object is primarily to give the novice 
a good working knowledge of his engine, its operation and care. 



